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enter image description hereWe installed our shower base - round corner, and tiled our walls. Now our glass shower doors on steel frames don't fit on the base. It's too small and doesn't have enough room to sit inside of the base. It's off by about 1 inch combined from both sides. I don't think we took into account the walls. Is there anything we can do to fix this? enter image description here

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    I'll hazard a guess (not quite up to being an answer) that if your doors fit the base before you tiled the walls, your solution would have to be taking a diamond saw to the tiled walls to cut channels for the door-frame to sit further back against the wall structure, not on the face of the tile. With appropriate detailing for waterproofing, etc. associated...
    – Ecnerwal
    May 13 at 13:24
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    Thanks... added photos for context and edited post May 13 at 15:20
  • I presume the door and the base came together as a set, right? Did the mfgr provide specs on how thick the tiles could be? In a recent tile shopping expedition (in the US), we saw variations from about 4-8mm in tile thickness. If the specs were for a max of 4mm tiles and you used 8mm, that would offset your door by all of 4mm in each direction which doesn't come close to the 25mm (1") you mention. Did you put the shower pan base between the correct layers?
    – FreeMan
    May 13 at 16:51
  • Is it possible you got the door for a floor shower, not a basin shower? Can you please include the exact model number of both? Are they matched? They doen't have to be, but a 32in base for one brand is not a 32in base for the other brand.
    – P2000
    May 13 at 17:12
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    I think the answer from DMoore will give you the best looking solution. If it was me I would take the shower doors apart. Take the bottom curved base and lay it on the shower base and see how far you are off. It's possible you can just cut a small amount from the top and bottom curved pieces and it will work. And if it doesn't fit and you need two glass panels it will look better than any of the other answers. If you post the model number or link to instructions you'll get a better and more definitive answer. May 13 at 19:43
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Unfortunately while your shower door and base look nice, the engineering on them is whack. Just looking at where the door should sit... its not even flat. I am guessing (hoping) that there is a bevel to the bottom of the door that makes it "fit" but just a flat surface works better.

I have put in 10s of these things. On all of mine I have had the OPPOSITE issue. I have to build out to a depth so the door isn't inside.

What could you have done better? Well you should have set your base up and put the door on to test out the dimensional fit before installing the backer and tile. If you are off by that much there is no way this thing will fit.

(pre) Solution? You could inset the wall compared to the rest of the room by using thinner concrete backer or possibly make the rest of the room thicker... You could also push the base out by maybe adding a backing to it. It is too late to try these things as you would need to rip out your base and redo plumbing a bit.

(post) Solution? You cannot cut out a space for your door. I have no idea why that is being suggested in the comments. I have never seen anyone with any tool that could cut out tile in a straight line. Sure you can cut it out. Just like I can spray paint my car myself when I need a paint job. Expect to use lots of caulk after and for it to look really bad and possibly leak.

Me guesses... I would guess that the manufacturers run sheet on this install is doing it with a PVC wall system. I am guessing that they suggest that the walls go right on the 2x4 framing. Then your door fits. There really isn't another way given your details are correct. (do you have the manufacturers install instructions for this? it is common for these bases/doors to be sold separate from a wall system as they can give you a variety of choices on the wall system.)

How do we salvage this? The only solution without ruining the integrity of the tile work you have done and possibly ruining the waterproof system is to cut the door to make it fit. Cutting the metal is not that big of a deal. The cuts should be hidden for the most part and the side pop back in after. If you can only cut one side obviously that is half the work but I am not there and doubt it. The problem is you probably cannot cut the glass as it should be tempered. Meaning local glass shop will have to send out two new tempered sheets. So your cost of repairing this right is really just those two new sheets (100-150 in my area).

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Considering the round shape of the door and base, the very narrow lip on the base, and your desire to salvage, here is a sketch for building a curb.

There are two options for detail "A", depending how your door will align with the base. You might end up with the door entirely outside the base (A1), or partially on the base and on the curb (A2).

I sketched a "neo angle" curb, but you could build a rectangular one or a curved one matching the door and base entirely. I believe the neo angle would be easiest to build DIY, would aesthetically match the door and base, would not take up too much space in the bathroom, and have no sharp extruding corner.

The framing for it can simply be 2x4 flat or on edge to provide good support. Depending on the height of that base you may have to rip the lumber to align its tiled top to the height you require (A1 or A2), or add some height with plywood (1/4...3/4). Then some tile backer or cement board for the top and sides, and tiled. Seal the grout. Finish with caulking where door meets bottom, and at the floor.

If any one asks, you say it's to add detail and make it all spacious for a more luxurious experience.

enter image description here

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  • Sentiment is right if it weren't a plastic base. Basically this door will be right on the crack or right over it. The outer edge has a lip and if it is on it - then it is a 100% fail and won't work. If the door was 100% on the new curb then almost all of the water in this small shower will be funneled to the new crack you have created. There is just no way for something to fit with plastic - as it moves/flexes too much. Even caulk would crack quickly and your floor would be rotted in weeks, not to mention mold.
    – DMoore
    May 13 at 21:33
  • @DMoore first they have to determine how it all aligns. Mold resistance (bath) silicone is required in both cases A1 and A2. I am 2 years into mine with no issues. Base was set in cement.
    – P2000
    May 13 at 22:02
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Your options are:

Either cut a channel into your tile to recess the door assembly risking destroying your tile (both chipping the finish and note that little pieces don't like to stay stuck to the wall); build a curb carefully and lapping over the shower base; or, buy a new enclosure and think of the lost money as paying for a valuable lesson learned: don't forget to account for the thickness of your finishes.

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    Indeed, a curb is a possibility. I had a smilar issue and built a curb. It worked because only one side needed filling, but it wasn't easy to get all cracks neatly water tight. I used a brushed steel trim as well, and silicone.
    – P2000
    May 13 at 17:13
  • what did you use to build the curb? May 13 at 17:31
  • Poor man's solution is 2x4 built up anchored to joists or blocking where no joists assuming wood framed floor with durarock or the like, slather with red guard, tile it and get out your diamond buffers (good luck with a radius, OP gonna get some good bullnose practice), grout and caulk, and voila May 13 at 17:42
  • Just so you understand. Cutting out one line on a floor takes expertise but it is done all the time. Cutting out a channel - 2 cuts per side - on tile that isn't even laying flat... I will delete my answer if you find one person that has ever done this successfully (even if it is out of the OP's range of doing). You knew the tiles weren't flat right?
    – DMoore
    May 13 at 18:13

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