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From picture 1, it looks like the flange can be separated from the drain body. In picture 2 while holding the drain body from the bottom of the sink, I tried to remove the flange with a plier by twisting the flange counterclockwise. The flange did not budge. In picture 3, it shows that there’s a protrusion for the lift rod that prevents me from lifting the drain body straight up. I don’t have a power saw. It seems impossible to remove the drain body and put in a new one. What can I do at this point?

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  • There's a large quite visible nut there. That would be what you need to turn in order to detach the part that's in your way as well as the brass washer and rubber gasket. – K H May 6 at 4:41
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Take $15 and get an angle grinder from harbor freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-69645.html

Before I had any tools I use to mess around with hand tools like hacksaws - what a joke and a waste of time.

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    Wow, that is one cheap angle grinder. Impressive. But you want to do this without scratching the fixture. The flange is thin soft metal, it takes 30 seconds to saw through it with a hacksaw. One slip with the grinder and you may as well have spent the $15 on a sledge hammer. :) – jay613 May 6 at 2:32
  • Yeah I'd be using it on the pipe extending below the tub and pulling the assembly upwards after cut. I've used an angle grinder to remove faucets from porcelin sinks - cutting up the 3 hole taps from the top of the porcelin. I will admit I didn't prep the area at all and ended up with a small scratch in at least one of the two cases. I was happy with the quality of the job given the price I paid. I find the control on an angle grinder is infinitely better than the control you have over a reciprocating saw. – Fresh Codemonger May 6 at 6:08
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Buy or make a close quarters hacksaw. If it has a pistol style handle, turn it around so it's opposite the teeth. Carefully cut a slit in the flange, then grab the flange with pliers just as in your second picture, crumple it in on itself and push it down through the hole.

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While you're working on this cover the drain tube with a sandwich bag using a rubber band to hold it on, to prevent sewer gases entering the room.

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  • This has been a tried and true method for me. +1 – Jimmy Fix-it May 6 at 5:15
  • My, what a lovely vintage turquoise green sink from 1952 you've got there! – FreeMan May 6 at 13:00
  • Thank you. That's a bathtub, and I believe it was original to the 1941 house. I loved it, and the matching tiles, sink and toilet. I left that house in 2012 and moved to an 1896 house that, thankfully, does not have any original bathroom appliances, given that the house had no utilities when built! The repair of this drain would make a great DIY horror story if there was a place here to put such things. – jay613 May 6 at 18:05
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Pull the drain flange up like in your second picture. Insert a large screwdriver through both holes in the pipe for leverage and use your Channellocks or a pipe wrench to turn that flange counterclockwise while holding the screwdriver firm. If that doesn't work, cut the pipe from the bottom with a hacksaw

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If you don't have a hack saw and don't want to spend any cash, you might be able to crush the down pipe with the channel locks, then wiggle it back and forth until it breaks.

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