I am installing a stainless steel work sink. I researched as much as I could. Are these the parts and materials I need for this install? I have FlowGuard Gold, which is CPVC I believe. I believe the drain pipe is 1 1/2".

    2 Keeney Brass 1/2-in FIP x 3/8-in Compression Quarter Turn Angle Valve
    2 Charlotte Pipe CPVC Adapter 
    1 Christy's PVC Pipe Cement and Primer 8-fl oz PVC Cement and Primer 
    1 Oatey 0.6-in x 43-ft Plumber's Tape 
    1 Keeney 1-1/2-in Plastic Sink Trap J-Bend 
    1 Keeney Brass 1/2-in FIP x 3/8-in Compression Quarter Turn Angle Valve 
    1 IRWIN 1.5-in Multipurpose Pipe Cutter 
    1 Christy's PVC Pipe Cement and Primer 8-fl oz PVC Cement and Primer
  1. Turn off water
  2. turn on faucets to drain water
  3. cut existing pipe
  4. apply primer then apply glue and install adapters

This look like a solid plan to you guys? Anything I am missing?

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  • You have compression valves AND CPVC adapters, what are the adapters for? No pipe, and its associated adapter, that goes from the trap to the drain stub from the wall. (looks like a glue unit, but will it line up perfectly for that?) No tail piece from the sink basket to the trap. – Alaska Man Apr 25 at 19:26
  • Did I get the wrong valves? The adapters are for the 2 cpvc lines coming out of the wall and the valves screws on them. That is one of my questions what do I need to do to attach the U-trap pipe to the wall drain pipe. – amrog Apr 25 at 23:58
  • You need a 90 to go from the drain pipe to the trap. Other than that it looks right make sure your threads fit your valves and the other 3/8 side is the size to the sink I did not see the 3/8 flex line to go to the faucet usually the lines on the faucet are not long enough. – Ed Beal Apr 26 at 20:12
  • Compression valves do not screw onto threaded adapters they are compressed on with ferrule & nut. I suppose you could thread them on if the adapter is a female and the threads match. You can compress them directly on CPVC or you can get a valve made for a threaded pipe connection. Or Push to connect valves. – Alaska Man Apr 27 at 19:13

If your wall pipe is 1 1/2" and you're installing 1 1/2", you'll want some kind of non-glue coupling (seriously, don't glue that tail piece on). There's one in the drain section for slip-joint coupling, but if you don't care about aesthetics ( I have mine in a cabinet so it's not a big deal to me, but I can't tell if this would be exposed or not), I prefer the rubber couplers from the PVC line aisle (they hold the pipe better). The catch there is that the rubber couplers are sized for inside diameter, while your thinner PVC drain parts are sized for outside diameter (they're so thin the ID and OD are practically the same). So you would buy a 1 1/2" coupler in the white PVC next to your drain stuff, but you would (confusingly) buy a 1 1/4" coupler in rubber because the OD is 1 1/2".

Skip the CPVC adapters, primer and glue. I would also skip the compression fittings and just buy a push connector (i.e. Sharkbite). I found them to be about $1-2 more than their compression counterparts, and for one sink you'll save more than that skipping all that CPVC stuff you'd waste. Plus there's no hassle. Just cut, push and you're done (you might only need the water off for 5 mins tops like this). And the push connectors are likely to be the superior quarter-turn ball valves, which are far easier to operate.

  • Thanks @Machavity. Those sharkbites will save time and money. I won't need any glue if I am using slip joint for the drain pipe. Can you recommend a trap? I've looked but can't find a compatible trap. Also, do I need to use tape or plumber's putty on any fittings? – amrog Apr 27 at 1:42
  • Actually your trap looks like it might work. I missed that you have that 90 trap kit. So you might not need the tail pipe and coupler after all. As for tape and fittings, that's to make direct threaded things not leak. With these pipes, you have compression fittings working with gaskets so you don't need it. – Machavity Apr 27 at 2:06
  • I need to cut that cap off the drain pipe but what should I use to attach the trap to it if I don't glue the trap to the drain pipe? is there a slip-joint male to female? – amrog Apr 29 at 1:59
  • See that 90 elbow on your J-bend kit? What you'll do is cut the pipe, slip the ring (provided with the kit) and a rubber washer on, then screw it to the elbow. The bottom of that elbow is your "fat lip" washer-less connection to the J. – Machavity Apr 29 at 2:15
  • okie dokie, I'll give it go and post if I run into some problems. Thank you – amrog Apr 30 at 12:32

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