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Grounding box

Hello all, I am adding a 240V outlet and am grounding the box. I would like to know if what I have done here will be okay upon inspection.

Thank you, Ben

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    Looks good to me. You've got it grounded and the cable appears to be stapled near the box. Commented Apr 24, 2021 at 21:58
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    Since you asked if it's grounded properly, I'll have to ask what you did with the other end...
    – JACK
    Commented Apr 24, 2021 at 22:36

3 Answers 3

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That grounding method has been my standard practice for years. Normally a quick check by inspectors is looking for a wire connector, so I think it has caused inspectors a few extra seconds to see what has been done, but never questioned or failed.

Except it looks like if that is a proper connecting grommet you put it in backwards.

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    The raco /Hubble insiders are installed from inside the box. You ought to get some and try them out.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Apr 25, 2021 at 0:40
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That ground looks acceptable inspectors usually use exhibit 120.3 when flagging an improper wrap. 110.3 specifically is about all minim wire but all wires under screws fall under the same requirements 2/3-3/4 wrap as a proper wrap.

As for the wire clamp / locking bushing in the box, I use those insider clamps all the time and love them for panels especially on remodels where I don’t want to open the walls.

It looks like you left a 1/4” or more of the cable insulation inside the box and if you have 6+ inches free wire from the back of the box it will pass inspection.

The only possible improvement would be on the ground to leave a inch of room prior to the screw (the screw deforms the wire slightly and if future remodels that is a point where the wire can break, that short a piece is almost impossible to repair But all in all it looks to be a good job.

Also as George said in his comment the staple I usually leave a small service loop or in this case up to 12” max of wire between the staple and the box, this goes back to remodeling 8” without a clamp.

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It looks to me like the box is installed flush with the back of the drywall. You will need to add a "mud ring" to that which is the thickness of the drywall. That would bring it out to a normal 1-gang or 2-gang openingrr.

You don't need to run a ground wire to the receptacle if it has hard clean metal-metal contact (mounting screws bottomed out) to the box. That's one less wire to wrestle. Floating on the drywall ears and having only the mounting screw heads as a current path isn't good enough, unless the receptacle is labeled "self-grounding". (it is good enough for switches).

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