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I have a 4 way circuit as shown in the the picture below. Power comes in to the light's box and goes to the switch from there.

enter image description here

Can I use the DW6HD and two of the DD00R in this configuration? Below is the wiring diagram from Leviton, it just doesn't show how to wire the switches when the Line wire starts at the light and is also the Load (not sure if saying that proper): enter image description here

I believe with the wires I have now it won't work and I need to have a new 14-3 wire installed from the light to the switch labeled Top Stairs? After that it should work?

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Nope, can't do it. All the smart switches need neutral, and neutral does not exist at all in this circuit.

The black and white between lamp and first 3-way is

  • White = always-hot (must be re-marked with tapeto be black)
  • Black = switched-hot (I suggest re-marking with tape to be red)

You'll need either a very carefully chosen dimmer that does not need neutral, or replace that cable run with /3 cable (black, white, red).

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  • Thanks for your response. If I replace the cable from the right side light fixture to the box labeled top stairs with a 14-3 it is possible to use the smart switch then? I can get to that wire fairly easily through the attic so swapping is a possibility for me if that will get the job done – Joel Wakefield Apr 21 at 12:07
  • @JoelWakefield yes. You could also run 14/2. Connect it to your incoming power and run the power supply down to the "top stairs" switch, then wire the rest up per your diagram. – FreeMan Apr 21 at 12:46
  • @JoelWakefieldYes, if the breaker is 15A, 14-3 is the best play (if the breaker is 20A use 12-3). I recommend strictly color coding with tape: black=always-hot, red=switched-hot, white=neutral (already will be), and yellow=signal line. That's my practice, but it also matches the colors already chosen by the manufacturer. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Apr 21 at 18:14
  • @FreeMan except the 14/2 and existing 14/2(?) cannot be treated as a /4, and would require very careful separation of neutrals due to 300.3. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Apr 21 at 18:16
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    Actually the light bulb in my head just went off (intentional) and got it to work! Re-read @Harper-ReinstateMonica comment above and got it to work. Thank you everyone for your help! – Joel Wakefield Apr 21 at 20:46
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Just in case you're not married to the Leviton switches, I'm going to recommend Lutron Caseta for this install. With Caseta, only one of the switches will be a "real" smart switch, and the others will be replaced with a mini remote that looks just like a switch. You just connect the appropriate wires behind the remote to make the circuit work. One "real" switch means the system always knows if the light is on or off.

Caseta Kit

The switches do require a hub, but you only need one for the whole house (unless its a sprawling ranch house) and installing and pairing the switches is easy. They even have a switch that doesn't require a neutral if none of your boxes have one.

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  • I have a sizable amount of the Levitons already installed so I need to stick with them – Joel Wakefield Apr 21 at 20:36
  • Yea, I get that... Usual disclaimer - if it doesn't help you, maybe it will help someone else that searches. – JPhi1618 Apr 21 at 20:39

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