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I need to modify my drain stack somewhat. I want turn a T in the stack to the back wall to make space in the wall.

To do this, I need to cut the drain stack and, obviously, reconnect it after I turn the T. But since there is’t enough movement to put in a solid connector, I was looking into using the rubber Fernco connector. I’m having troubles determining if this meets code. Here is a picture. I’ll be cutting the stack above and below the T to rotate it to the back. The intention is to use the Fernco rubber connectors to reattach the pipes. Eventually this will be behind a wall.

Ok, so my question is, in Ontario Canada, do you know if it meets code to put in the Fernco rubber connectors in a vertical drain stack.

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  • Why would you be able to install a no-hub coupling but not an ABS repair coupling?
    – isherwood
    Apr 2 at 15:51
  • @isherwood, I’ve updated the post to include a specific question. Also, in your comment regarding the ABS repair coupling, are you referring to the solid ABS coupling? If so, I can’t use the solid coupling as there is no movement of the stack in order insert the coupling. Or, does your reply suggest that the no-hub and ABS coupling can be interchanged freely, and as such, there is no issue with using the no-hub coupling? Apr 2 at 16:21
  • I'm saying that you have to slip a no-hub coupling onto the pipe somehow (they don't have zippers), and therefore you should be able to slip on a repair coupling just as easily (or more so, since they're shorter). No-hub couplings are mostly used to connect pipes of disparate material. They don't necessarily make the job easier.
    – isherwood
    Apr 2 at 16:51
  • Your photo doesn't show what's above the tee, where you'd have to cut the pipe. It might help if we could see that. Obviously you can't cut between the adjacent fittings we see there, so you'll have to go above. (Or was your plan to put a rubber coupling over the two fitting flanges?)
    – isherwood
    Apr 2 at 16:52
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    Repair couplings do not have internal stops. Hence the name. :)
    – isherwood
    Apr 2 at 18:05
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To learn whether a no-hub coupler is allowed, call your local inspection office. A quick description of the project should make the application fairly clear and you'll have your answer.

It may be a moot question, though. I'd be doing something like this:

  1. Cut below the tee and above the existing coupler above the tee and the reducer. Also cut off the small pipe that comes off the tee below its coupler. It's wise to eliminate joints you don't need for reliability, etc.
  2. Slide a repair coupling onto the small upper stub.
  3. Rebuild your intersection as you like, fitting the mate to the upper stub closely to it. You may be able to flex the upper stub aside to get the rest together. If not, see below.
  4. Mark equal distances above and below the stub joint so you can visually center the repair coupling.
  5. Apply cement and spin the repair coupling down into place with at least a full turn once on the cement.

Dry-fit everything first. If you find that you really can't flex the upper stub to the side enough to make this plan work, put two repair couplings in that run, with a short pipe between. The last step will be to drop in that short pipe and cement the repair couplings.

Look, Ma! No rubber parts!

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