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Is that reducer coming out of the meter necessary? Currently, it's a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, then steps back up to 3/4" and then to 1" for the runs in the house. Can I eliminate this reducer and just go from 3/4" to 1"? Did the guy on the truck just not have the right sized fittings the day of the install?

Meter

Fitting

Further Info if Needed: I'm in the middle of a remodel. I am going to move away from the black pipe and replace with CSST. We are moving FAU, moving the water heater, going from tanked to tankless etc. I'll be running new CSST. I'm just trying to eliminate some of the unnecessary fittings and turns if possible at the meter.

Thanks for the help!

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    Only people who want to be on the news play with gas. Would ask supplier why first and to give you information needed to change over. Hopefully they are knowledgeable professionals. – crip659 Feb 23 at 1:24
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    Nobody is “playing” with gas. – Richard Feb 23 at 1:26
  • That looks like an old mechanical meter. They replaced the gas meters in my area with digital ~ 25 years ago. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Feb 23 at 3:03
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    It certainly looks wrong but if it is within specification, I wouldn't touch it. Perhaps that diameter pipe is required for that specific meter to be accurate. – Steve Wellens Feb 23 at 5:55
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    It sounds like you're worried that once you add more high-consumption devices, this fitting will cause a problem... but have you run the numbers to make sure that the 3/4" meter without this fitting will be enough? You might need to upgrade to a bigger meter entirely, in which case what to do with the fitting on the current one is moot. – Nate S. Feb 23 at 18:14
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I have not adjusted the lines at the meter connection for many years because my gas utility got real upset (for reasons I won’t mention here). They started using J shaped fittings for higher system security.

If the utility is OK with you doing it I would since it’s on the customer side easy enough to leak check and it’s outside.

I will warn you with CSST you may not want a large flow device like a home tankless supplied (large flows tend to create a whistle sound) . Reducing the restrictions and elbows will help deliver the flow rate you may need but you may also need a larger meter if the oven, water heater furnace all kick in at the same time the whistle can be fairly loud go large to keep it from being a problem.

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  • Thanks Ed, that is great info. I have heard the same concern and will look further into it. Your the second person that I came across that mentioned I may need to upgrade the meter. I think I’ll put a call into the gas company. Is there any reason they would have installed that step down the way they did? – Richard Feb 23 at 4:09
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    I am not sure on a specific reason other than reducing tampering with the meter. I do know that’s why they went to J tubes I figured everyone did or possibly configured the plumbing so the meter could not be flipped up side down temporarily. Touching the gas lines may get you shut down just like the electric utility, so doing anything that they can see should be done to there specifications. – Ed Beal Feb 23 at 14:02
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The reducing nipple is on your side of the meter, that means you own it and can replace it. Whether or not you are allowed to do it yourself is another issue, different jurisdictions have different rules for gas. In my area I would not hesitate to do it.

NOTE- you probably are not allowed to remove that meter union (which belongs to your gas utility company), meaning that unless you can completely disassemble from the end back... you will need to hacksaw and then use a right-left coupling/nipple set to tie it back together. Call the utility and ask if they will let you unscrew that union at the meter, or if they will do it, when you are ready to do the job.

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  • Thanks for the info. So, there is no “magic” reason for the nipple to step down, then back up? Thank you for the info on the union. I will be able to simply cut my side out and thread back to their union on my side of the meter. – Richard Feb 23 at 4:07

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