Facts: Existing heater circuit, 30 amps, 240V has two WALL HEATERS AND two thermostats in two different rooms. (For the furnace-focused, milliamp minds, you can move on to another question). ;)
Thermostats have been removed from their box locations.
In dining room I had a 240v thermostat,similar to the Honeywell TL8230A1003. This junction box contains three romex cables: 10-2 w ground for all. Line in is upper right black wire pigtailed from twisted blacks. Load #2 goes to living room thermostat and load #3 goes to the King EFW2440, 240V dining room wall heater. The thermostat was installed by an acquaintance a decade or so ago with neutrals not tied together but used as separate returns for the two black wires. I was concerned about this...Box may need to be redone as it is recessed 1/2" into the wall and there is no contact between box and drywall.(Will look into an extension ring but just want a bigger box). New 240V King EFW2440 wall heater under warranty just installed.Its wattage can be adjusted. Were the neutrals supposed to be used as two sets of wires in this installation?
(Insert picture here) doesn't work on my cell phone...brain has 0 volts again.
In the living room junction box, it had a similar 120v thermostat there that lights up. Think the two thermostats got switched by mistake at installation. There are two romex cables, 10-2 w ground. This thermostat controlled an old but good 1998 240v king electric EFW2440 wall heater, whose wattage cannot be adjusted per King. I will be changing this from a 120V thermostat to a new, 240V, 2-pole, Honeywell (same model). In this box the 120v thermostat red wires were nutted one each to each of the white neutrals also. Black to blacks. No o issues despite it being a 120V...
Is a 2-pole, 240v thermostat appropriate for this location? I wanted 2 poles to be able to fully shut off the power in summer. Wiring here seems straightforward.
(Insert picture of brain in frying pan with wires coming out). ;)