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The sanitary drain in my house, going to the city through the concrete basement floor has started to leak. I realized the leaking is around the access cap. The issue is this specific access cap seems to be un-openable. Almost like it is leaded or just very rusted in place. A few years back a plumber actually tried with a 3ft wrench and gave up. (There is a 2nd access port across the basement he was able to easily open and use.)

Ideally I think the fix would be to crack it open and just tighten it more... But that seems to not be easy, or I am concerned cranking on 70 year old cast iron pipe with >3ft wrench seems like it is asking for trouble... Also the fact that there seems to be water leaking from it even though it is above floor level seems odd. The image does not look like much, but there was a 2ft diameter puddle near it this morning I mopped up. It also bubbles around the opening when you run hot water...

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    I suspect that you have a partial blockage downstream and what you're seeing is a backup of wastewater which sits there for long enough that it's seeping up through the threads around that cap.
    – brhans
    Feb 6, 2021 at 19:23
  • Would try using some penetrating oil on it, might need to use 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission oil(best stuff). Put oil on and tap with a hammer, wait, then after some time try turning.
    – crip659
    Feb 6, 2021 at 19:31
  • So try some PB B'laster? Also I agree with the downstream blockage, my laundry tubs have been slow for years.
    – MadHatter
    Feb 6, 2021 at 19:45
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    "Ideally I think the fix would be to crack it open and just tighten it more" What is the question?, how to fix my stuck clean out, or is it, Why is my clean out leaking and what is causing it?
    – Alaska Man
    Feb 6, 2021 at 20:33
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    The plug is likely not cast iron but brass. You should be able to drill/chisel it out (but make sure you have a replacement (plastic) plug ready to put in).
    – Hot Licks
    Feb 6, 2021 at 23:57

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Cast pipe and fittings do rust. And when it rusts on a threaded fitting that s not opened for a long while it is basically frozen.

Tapping GENTLY around and on the plug while wrenching it open may work.

Sometimes wrenching it tight and than loose free's the plug.

Heating the hub (outside section where the plug screws into) may help. Don't strike the cast when heating it.

If you find a rubber (hub-less) connector that fits over the plug you can drill, saw, cut the plug out install the new connector and cap.

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If penetrating oil and mild heat doesn't help, I'd use an impact wrench to try to break that plug free. If you have a friend who is a mechanic they may be able to help you out with this. Otherwise, you can rent them from tool rental yards. A 120V 3/4" one is $21/day near me; and you will most likely need to purchase an appropriately-sized socket (see local hardware store).

If you've ever seen a large person struggling with a long breaker-bar trying to get a lug nut loose to change their tire, you can compare that to the 3-foot wrench your plumber used. Auto shops use impact wrenches to loosen lug nuts, and that's why. Cordless electric ones exist these days and they're amazing.

If you're worried about breaking that fitting and subsequently having to chip it out of the floor to replace it, I have had that done (professionally) on a home recently as part of a main sewer line replacement. It wasn't free but it was necessary to fix the problem, and cost less than I expected.

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