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I have a 2 story house with basement built in 1904 and I'm wanting to create a doorway into a bedroom from the living room.

Through the center of the house is the wall which is load bearing. The wall is 26 feet in length and the door placement will be approximately 4 feet or so from the one end.

I am just wondering with removal of one stud to create the door do I need to angle in supports till I'm done or is the removal of that stud going to matter while I put in header and jack studs?

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General prudence dictates that you support adequately while working. I'd punch through the wall on both sides and set mini walls, so that you can install a header etc unhindered and be able to remove more than one stud easily.

And even if you don't fear something catastrophic, just maintaining the ceiling height before you stick something new in is a big deal.

Side tips, if you're using hydraulic jacks, know that they might creep down over time. Get an accurate elevation before you start so that you'll know what height to finish at. The plaster dust will be a curse, so enveloping the area in plastic will help.

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I have done similar many times. I hold a ~4+ foot long 2x4 up to the ceiling and wedge another 2x4 from the floor to ceiling. If there is flooring that might be damaged I will put one on the floor. I do this on both sides of the wall a few feet back to provide enough working room. If a larger door opening I will use 2-3 temp studs and a longer top plate. Using the wedge action supports the joists until the header and Jack studs can be put in place.

Use caution not to put excessive force or you will raise the ceiling enough to crack plaster and Sheetrock work on both floors. You also want things tight so it won’t sag and cause cracks and uneven floors above.

When done Then I knock out the temps and use them some place else. This really works well with most Sheetrock but it will squash popcorn ceiling texture. Popcorn ceiling texture really can not be fixed it stays squished. A caution most popcorn ceiling texture contains asbestos so be aware if working with it.

On plaster I will usually use a 2x6 or 8 to spread the load and reduce the chance of cracking, plaster is a bit less forgiving than Sheetrock but I have done this many times without cracks, and many times with cracks that can be fixed when covering the header.

I normally set the support first as one time I found a exterior wall top plate both it and the wall spliced at the same point, that can ruin your day.

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    Drywall is the enemy - that's what comes off first, otherwise you can get halfway through a project and realize you'll have to rebuild the entire thing if you proceed.
    – Mazura
    Jan 30, 2021 at 20:45
  • @ mazura I only remove drywall in the area where the header is going to be set and down the wall are you talking about more than that? I find Sheetrock / drywall a better friend than plaster.
    – Ed Beal
    Jan 31, 2021 at 0:22

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