Lauzon 3 1/4 planks, tongue-and-groove. To clarify, it's the stuff with 1/8" real wood on top. Over OSB sub-floor. This is all new construction. About 500 sf right now, but another 500 sf about 6 months from now.

  1. If we use a brad nailer and tapping block, will we get a tight enough joint? (Note, we have a flooring nailer, but it seems we can't use it with engineering flooring. One thing the flooring nailer ensures is a tight joint.)

  2. Is it worth buying a proper flooring nailer for engineered wood, given the amount we have to do, and my husband's 63-year-old knees? We'd have to order it online, neither Lowes nor HD carry them.

  3. Also, any opinions on the problem of getting the correct angle on the nail, if we use the brad nailer. (Obviously with a dedicated floor nailer that's not a problem).

  • 3
    What do the instructions from the manufacturer say about installation? 500 sq ft is an investment, Right tool for the job is always the best advise.
    – Alaska Man
    Jan 24 at 20:12
  • Nothing much. I did look at the instructions, professional courtesy...
    – Catherine
    Jan 24 at 20:39
  • 1
    The flooring nailer I have has bottom plates that can be changed out for different thicknesses of flooring, besides having a add on plate to protect prefinished flooring.
    – Jack
    Jan 24 at 20:47
  • What is the underlayment? If it is thicker than thick paper, or is "cushy" it will make for a squeaky floor
    – Jack
    Jan 24 at 20:49
  • 1. Floor Muffler ultraseal. It's recommended for impact noise abatement under wood floor, so I can't see how it would make the floor squeak 2. The problem with the flooring nailer is that it uses thicker nails, made for hardwood. It won't take the smaller nails required to avoid destroying engineered wood.
    – Catherine
    Jan 24 at 21:10

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