0

We bought a 1hp shallow well jet pump (Everbilt) a couple months ago to move water from a cistern to use in various places on the farm.

It stopped working all of a sudden a week ago. Test meter says ~123v going into the motor, even when I take the cover off and probe the inner wiring.

Tested the start capacitor and it rises and falls as I should expect. Shaft turns. There was no hum, click, noise, or anything when we apply power to the motor. So I figured it was a crap motor.

Went to another hardware store, got a different brand (Zoeller). Spent an hour removing the old motor and replacing with new and I got the EXACT same result. 120+v into the motor, but no sound, hum, clicks....nothing. I test the capacitor on this one, too.

I'm thinking that there's a slight chance I got a bum motor a second time. So I plugged in a 3/4hp portable irrigation pump we already had to the same electrical source and it works. I try the Zoeller motor on a different breaker at the post, still doesn't work.

So I order ANOTHER 1hp motor (Red Lion) and the first thing I try is wiring it up to see if it runs. Same result! There's power going into the motor, but NOTHING HAPPENS. Still no hums, clicks, no smoke, nothing. I have other items like heat lamps and lights plugged into this building and they all work; even if I have them on this circuit.

I've never seen anything like this. An AC motor is fairly simple. Yet 3 pumps (2 of which brand new) not working even the power is obviously there. Esp when I plug in another motor (which is a cheap harbor freight one; these others are more expensive) and it works just fine. I switched them all to 115 instead of 230...it's the first thing I do.

What else am I missing or am I so unlucky that I just bought 3 bad motors from 3 brands in a row?

0

1 Answer 1

1

Since you are measuring voltage it is a real possibility you have an open neutral, yes you can have an open neutral and measure 120v +- this is quite common in circuits that use backstabs an easy test put a table lamp on the circuit if no light measure the voltage 120v open neutral if you read zero volts it’s an open hot. And you were reading a phantom voltage to know which wire to trace it helps to put a load on the circuit verify the hot measurement under load.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.