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Just bought an '80s house with a finished basement with 4 overhead neons. I;d like to replace them with 4 dimmable LED panels. I found some "Commercial Electric" 2' x 4' pairs (2 panels per box) at HD and bought two sets (a total of 4 panels).

First thing I learned is that I would need a 0v-10v dimmer/switch. I went with a Leviton DS710-01z, one of the recommended ones by the LED mfr.

So, I've had pretty good luck mounting the panels and I'm ready to start wiring.

The dimmer has 4 wires out and a ground...2 (black and white) 14AWG line voltage (120v) and 2 (gray and purple) 18AWG Low Voltage and the ground. If I'm going to run 4 connecting cables from the dimmer to the 4 panels, could I do 4 runs of 14/4 cable with ground? Or should I be running 4 runs of 14/2 for the line voltage and ground, then another 4 runs of low-voltage wire for the 0v-10v?

By the way, as I'm wiring all of this stuff parallel, might I be overloading the Leviton dimmer? (by using 4 panel). I couldn't find any indicators on the Leviton as to whether or not it had limitations?

So thanks in advance, I'll really look forward to your help here!

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  • Send them back. "Commercial Electric" sells a lot of crud through Home Depot... they're practically a HD house brand, i.e. their products in HD are specifically made to sell to DIYers. 0-10V is a commercial dimming scheme, and it's shameless to divert a DIYer into it. This is SOP for Home Depot, they like to mess up your project because it makes you buy stuff twice. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jan 5 at 17:30
  • You can wire the 0-10V part all in parallel without overloading anything -- the lights are not drawing any significant current from that wire, they're just looking at the voltage to decide brightness, and they draw power from their AC connection. – Nate S. Feb 4 at 19:14
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica, I've gotta disagree with that -- 0-10V started in the commercial world, but there's no reason whatsoever it can't work in homes. And it avoids the nasty hack of using triac dimmers on LEDs, and will perform much better. I'm actually glad HD is selling real dimmable LEDs with a proper control input, instead of just the 'dimmable' kind that tries to reverse-engineer a triac dimmer signal. – Nate S. Feb 4 at 19:17
  • Yeah, enough with the Home Depot bashing already. I've worked at one and the fact that they offer a range of products doesn't make them incompetent or nefarious. Technology is changing and it's up to the consumer to do their homework. – isherwood Feb 4 at 20:05
  • @Nate it's not a good fit because it involves fishing additional wires, most people need to git-r-dun with the wires in the walls. I don't mind HD stocking the stuff, but they need to educate/disclaim/keep it in a cage where the stockboy won't unlock the cage without giving you a brochure on how they work. "up to the consumer to do their homework" = "throwing the consumer to the wolves". It is mitigated somewhat by HD's generous return policy, which HD certainly does better than Amazon. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Feb 4 at 20:40
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I would use 1 run to the fixture then daisy chain them just like any other install. The low voltage can run in the same cable because all the conductors are insulated for 600v so that would be code compliant. Make sure when you connect your 0-10 you connect them all the same. reversing 1 can damage that one and prevent the lights from going full power (a short takes mine down to ~10% light output) took a while to figure this out as the apprentice only mis wired the last 2 of 20. All the lights came on at a low level 1 fixture damaged 1 ok. The damaged one no longer was dimmable but works at full power so we put in an area we did not vary the lighting.

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