I have a Samsung HW-S60T soundbar. It has a DC 19V input. I'd like to install it in the kitchen on top of the cupboards. But there are no power outlets up there.

Rather than doing a bunch of drilling, making holes everywhere, I noticed that there is a gap between cupboards large enough to fit a USB-C cable. Elsewhere I see that a USB-C to 19V DC adapter exists:


So the question is whether it is safe to use a 3-part system of USB-C cable with adapters on either end to power this device.

The headache with the drilling is that I need to make a hole big enough for a 3-prong plug because that's what comes with the Samsung AC/DC adapter.

  • 3
    I’m voting to close this question because it's not about home improvement as defined by this site
    – Ack
    Jan 3, 2021 at 8:14
  • Just make sure all your polarities match up since it's a three part system.
    – JACK
    Jan 3, 2021 at 12:56

2 Answers 2


If you are using it below 87W assuming you are using the 87W version of the charger (for input in USB-C) it will okay. But if you are using it over 87W even with a bigger charger (let's say you are using a 200W charger) this converter more likely to overheat and die.

Because in the spec of your link it is stated: "input: Type-C Female, 65W or 87W Type-C Charger" so for safety reason, it safe to assume it only can produce 19V 87W @100% efficiency (of course not a single device is 100% efficient, it is only for assuming.)

Samsung HW-S60T the spec stated:

  • Operating Power Consumption (Main): 23W
  • Adaptor Power: 59W

We will take it as this soundbar would draw 59W power. So, this USB converter is safe to use. Even with 85% output efficiency = 73.95W is still bigger than your soundbar needs.

Just use a proper charger, buy a quality one, and do not buy a smaller power charger especially with power almost the same as it will be consumed. Buy the charger with over 60W output.

  • Thanks for your detailed answer! Why do you think we should take iit as "this soundbar would draw 59W power" instead of "this soundbar would draw 23W power"? Isn't that would "consumption" would mean? Jan 3, 2021 at 22:27
  • Because that's from power consumption (Main) usually use typical power consumption not calculated with increased power from high volume, peak rms etc etc. that's why the adaptor power should be sufficient enough to deliver power at high demand (bigger than typical power consumption) Jan 4, 2021 at 5:22

Running 120V is right out

First, your instincts about not running 120V mains power are correct. For instance, extension cords and AC power cords are made out of a material called cordage. It's made to flex and handle underfoot abuse, but it's illegal to use it as a substitute for the permanent wiring of a building. So even if you could snake the power cord through voids in the cabinet, it's illegal to do so.

In order to bring 120V up there, you would need to search for a damage-resistant wiring method such as armored cable, EMT, Wiremold or FMC that would fit in the space available. Then you'd need to put an extension on an existing outlet (e.g. switch or sometimes, lamp) to allow you to side-exit that box with the armored cable or conduit. Then bring that into a surface mount junction box up there. If this sounds like a bugbear of a job... yeah, you might as well install fish Romex into the walls at that point.

Low voltage rules are much gentler. Which voltage doesn't matter.

Which voltage below about 30V, that is.

So the "perilous journey" should be made with low voltage wiring not with 120V AC wiring. So the easier and "more legit" way to handle this would be to let the light's power block make 19V.

Essentially, extend the low-voltage side of the cord. If you need to buy inline barrel connector sockets and plugs, Radio Shack Mouser Electronics or Digi-key should be able to provide.

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