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I recently removed a fireplace and added new drywalls to open areas that were behind the fireplace.

I also added drywall tape to the inside corners, and metal corner beads to the outside corner. Only the new drywall areas (and a couple of inches above them) have the new corner bead and tape. I tried my best to make sure the new drywalls and tapes are installed correctly and are even all around... same with the mud work. But, I've noticed an issue with the inside corner on the right side. As you can see in the pictures the bottom side of the corner is not aligned with the top part.

What are my options at this point? Which compound would be best to fix the unevenness and the corner line?

Should I continue on and prime it and see how it turns out? Should I apply some mud to make the line more straight? Should I remove the drywall tape and try again, or add another tape to fix the line?

I'm a beginner to taping and this is really my first project, I've got the necessary tools including a 45min quickset, a different CGS sheetrock pre-mix compounds: multi-purpose, light-weight, and dust control types. I also have some sparkle but I don't think that is helpful here.

And I have the 2", 4", 6" and 12" knives. I've also got the inside and outside corner knives in case they are needed.

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Before: enter image description here

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    "Should I continue on and prime it and see how it turns out?" Absolutely not. You want the drywall/mud "perfect" to whatever standard you conisder perfect before paint. Paint will accentuate any problems with the surface, not hide them. The secret to a good paint job is good preparation, which in this case meens a drywall/mud surface that looks right, and smooth, and even.
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 1 at 13:30
  • Well, @Ecnerwal, the OP should paint it as-is if he wants it "done" and is not that concerned about how it looks... :D (and thus the prohibition on "should" questions - they're always subjective.)
    – FreeMan
    Jan 1 at 16:07
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    @FreeMan "to whatever standard you conisder perfect" Perfectly atrocious is just fine, if that's what you are going for. Point being, paint will not make it better. By asking the question at all, we can infer that the current state is not considered acceptable - so it won't be with paint on it, either.
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 1 at 16:11
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No need to mess with the tape job. It's just a matter of filling the depressions on each wall that create that wiggle. The easiest way is to completely repair one wall, then the other. It can get frustrating to try and do both at once, but it's possible. Your 12" knife isn't quite ideal, but it'll do. A 16" or wider knife or trowel would be great.

If you slide your knife against the adjacent wall into the corner you'll see that its edge creates a bridge over the recess. That's the level to which you want to fill. Lay some all-purpose or topping joint compound into the area. Press it in well, then work it out from the corner. Pull your knife out along the wall and scrape the mud flat. Use firm pressure but keep your knife no closer to the wall than about 60 degrees. You don't want it to flex into the trough you're trying to fill.

Always apply too little mud as opposed to too much. It's way easier to apply more later than to sand a mound down and deal with the mess. A fan makes drying times quick. Keep checking the level using your knife as a straightedge across the depression. At the end, give the whole area a thin skim to flatten any lingering divots.

When it comes time to sand, use a screen on a large pad. Don't use small sanding blocks. They tend to dig into some areas more than others, degrading your flat surface. Use long, light strokes across the depression just until all imperfections are gone.

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To get a straight line as a beginner you could use a paper faced inside corner bead which is available even at the big box stores.

After applying a 4" wide strip of mud on both sides of the corner, install the corner bead and press it into the mud and eyeball the line or use a long level. Embed with a 6" knife and remove excess and do NOT apply any compound to the top until it dries and you confirm the corner looks straight. Then feather out with 2-3 coats

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  • Good advice for anyone hoping to prevent this problem.
    – isherwood
    Jan 1 at 15:59
  • Agreed, this is more preventative than fixative. It is good advice, but it's too late for this OP.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 1 at 16:05
  • The OP can still apply a metal corner bead if they wanted. @isherwood way is what I would do now as its probably and easier fix but there is no guarantee it will be straight and it took me awhile to get the hang of mud work, still not very good at it
    – redlude97
    Jan 1 at 16:26
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Follow @isherwoods advice above, the only thing I would add is that it might help you if you used a small straight edge (18" or so) and use it to pencil mark out the bumps and hollows before breaking out the mud. At least then you'll have some idea where to put the mud.

As already said, do it a little at a time. Once dry, lightly knock down the nibs with sandpaper and check again with your straight edge. Repeat until you're happy.

Bear in mind that you don't have to be a 100% slave to the straight edge. In these situations (and especially on old properties) there is a 'rule', if it looks good, it is good and the straight edge be damned!

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If you don't already have one get this drywall tool:enter image description here

To use it: apply as much of an even coat of compound along both side of the corner (top to bottom). Press tool into corner at a slight angle and run it so as to spread and level the compound.

You may have to feather the compound with your 10-12 inch Spackle tool horizontally, but the corner tool will give you sharp and even corner lines.

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    This isn't going to help with a wiggly joint line. It'll make it smooth, but it'll follow the existing line.
    – isherwood
    Dec 31 '20 at 21:22
  • It's always worked for me. Just takes some patience and practice.
    – ojait
    Dec 31 '20 at 22:10

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