A 220 circuit in a residential application consists of two 110V lines with their AC voltage out of phase with each other. In your breaker panel you can see this as a double breaker with two hot lines going to the same outlet. So each of the two wires in your chandelier marked "electric", back in Turkey, would have been connected to one of the two 110V hot wires.
In your house in Canada, you'll use a single wire nut to connect both of those wires to the single black (hot) wire going into your ceiling box. Each of the two separate 110V "circuits" within the fixture will still be being driven by 110V, and you should have no issue with wiring ampacity within the fixture. The overall fixture's current draw on your home wiring will be doubled, but as long as your breaker doesn't trip when you turn on the light you're fine. If it does trip, just switch to lower-wattage bulbs.
As Niall C. indicated, do try to locate a ground wire, and if one's not provided use a piece of bare copper wire to connect the metal frame of the fixture to the ground wire in your ceilling box.
EDIT: Just noticed Niall's commend about the shared neutral, and he's right, the neutral will be carrying double the current if you use bulbs of rated wattage. I'd recommend halving the rated bulb wattage so you don't overcurrent that neutral wire.