I'm looking to swap some legacy 1-gang light-switches on our second floor seem to tasmota-friendly gosund switches. Unfortunately, the wiring seems consistent with the other room of no neutral/ground on the switch itself. As such, can we generalize the guidance from the other thread linked below:

  • Swap Yellow Wire Nut on Neutral to Red Nut for Neutral
  • Swap Yellow Wire Nut on Ground to Red Nut for Ground

If all the rooms follow this pattern - anything I should keep an eye out for ?

Thank you in advance.

P.S. Thank you to everyone who provided insight regarding the 2-gang switch. Physical dimension of the cut in the tile have prevented this from actually going ahead although hopefully the holidays will remediate that... Original question here.

Photo of the first switch recess.

  • You have a metal box, by code that box should be grounded then when the switch is attached to the box it will be grounded. Neutral and ground are not the same thing once the wiring exits the main panel. The neutral is normally a current carrying conductor the ground is not normally current carrying. The yellow connectors are more commonly referred to wire nuts. Wire nuts, wing nuts are trade names as is scotch-lock. The colors usually indicate size but some mfg’s don’t match others sizes. – Ed Beal Dec 27 '20 at 14:29
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    That assumes the Gosund has a metal yoke. (doesn't the UL White Book require that?) That assumes the Gosund is even UL listed... way too much CE cheap Chinese trash out there on DealExtreme/Wish/eBay/Amazon... – Harper - Reinstate Monica Dec 27 '20 at 22:16
  • @edbeal Thank you for the clarifying comments on the "Ground by box" - that explains that. I've updated the question to use the right terms. – NJL Dec 28 '20 at 3:02
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica Thank you and noted. ndeed, this device has "ETL" and "FCC" Logos which I understand to carry equivalence in test-criteria with the "UL" logo. – NJL Dec 28 '20 at 3:05
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    @NJL -- the FCC logo doesn't mean jack for what Harper's talking about; HOWEVER, the ETL mark is roughly equivalent to a UL marking (ETL = Intertek = a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory or NRTL, certified by OSHA to safety test electrical things) – ThreePhaseEel Dec 28 '20 at 3:20

The yellow wire nuts are fine. The wire looks like 3 #14 AWG so yellow is OK. You make a comment in your question " no neutral/ground on the switch itself", for clarification, the neutral and ground are not the same and you wouldn't normally have a neutral on a switch unless it was a fancy timer, dimmer or smart switch.

  • Thank you - between this and Ed Beal's comment, I'm glad to see that this is a standard config. As I can leverage the electrical box for grounding, I'll just focus on cabling up the neutral wire tomorrow. – NJL Dec 28 '20 at 3:06

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