0

I am not too familiar with the technical terms of what I have. (If anybody needs more information then I will do what I can to provide it, I am not sure if these are Cat 5 cables.).

Question: Can i convert the ends of my cables to Cat 6 so that I could plug in Cat 7 cables in order to run gigabyte internet.

enter image description here

enter image description here

enter image description here

enter image description here

11
  • 1
    Can you get a picture of the writing on the jacket of one of the grey cables? That should tell you if it's cat 5//5e/6/6a/7, which will tell you what kind of speed you can get out of it. And there's no benefit to mixing cable types like you're suggesting; you'll be limited to the speed of the slowest part of the link, which will likely be the in-wall wiring. – Nate S. Dec 14 '20 at 19:49
  • 1
    you can't convert cables, only re-run them. you could use HPNA, but probably not GBE. – dandavis Dec 14 '20 at 20:02
  • 1
    With the distance the cables have separated at the punch down block you may be limited to cat3 speeds even if cat 5 or better cable. This has been the only problem I have found where no service loop was left and the cables stripped and separated that far back although I did get reliable speeds with 110 blocks on cat 5E pulling them off and re terminating with short leads because each cable had a service loop that I was able to use to shorten the unwound conductors. Is that a 110 or a 66 punch down block I can’t tell from the angle. – Ed Beal Dec 14 '20 at 20:04
  • 2
    You don't need anything above Cat5e for gigabit ethernet. Using Cat6, 6a, or 7 parts will have no impact on anything but how much money you waste for nothing in return You've already been told that and you are still blithering about Cat6 and 7 - listen, read, comprehend.... – Ecnerwal Dec 14 '20 at 22:27
  • 2
    @DeanMacGregor No! Don't terminate with RJ45 plugs. Terminate with jacks. They are far more reliable than RJ45 plugs. Then use patch cables from jacks to devices - which can easily be replaced when they break. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Dec 14 '20 at 23:02
2

Cat5e cable is capable of running a gigabit ethernet home network. For the telephone jacks you've posted in the photos only wire continuity is important; telephone is on a different level than ethernet, as far as wire consistency and specifications go. You'll have to make sure as you re-terminate each cable that proper pairs are used and are untwisted only as much as necessary.

Each cable should be a "home run" to a central point. Your punchdown panel in photo 2 looks like it may already be a suitable location, but you will likely have issues with cable length there unless there is some slack in the walls. A lot of that unjacketed cable should be cut off. If you have room, it would be good to put a small patch panel in that location - if not you can use modular ethernet jacks. You can probably fit 6 keystone ethernet jacks into a wall plate there.

On each other end at the individual jacks like shown in photo 1, a modular ethernet jack can be used with a wall plate (keystone again would allow you to keep the coaxial in the same plate as shown) and it looks like you have a little slack to work with there.

Once the jacks are in place you can connect a router or switch to each jack in the central "hub" location (photo 2) using patch cables (cat5e would be fine, as another commenter said your network connection will only be as good as your worst cable so cat7 is overkill here) and another patch cable at the wall plate ends to connect the devices.

The Cat3 you have outside the house doesn't matter, ignore that. You can remove it or leave it (but if you remove it, be sure to seal up the holes in the exterior siding).

1

To get to gigabit you will (must) change to a 110 punch down panel, 66 blocks are only good for 10 based T and the wires are going need to be shortened quite a bit to get you up to gigabit. I haven’t done much data lately but have done entire buildings with a fiber backbone and 5E /6 and to get verified performance with a scanner or connected up. A speed test short distance from the strip to punch downs is critical (and the type)

Do agree with Fred a modular patch panel would be a great way to go and getting up to 6 keystone blocks in a faceplate is doable. These steps would be needed to get the speed you are trying to (I hope there is a service loop stuffed in the wall I always left 3’ at each end. Never know if you may have to redo one a few times.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.