I want to install a 10yo Vermont Castings woodstove in a un-insulated barn so I can work on projects throughout the winter and allow friends and family to play ping pong.

I want to use single wall pipe to maximize heat exchange as well as it is much cheaper. The distance of the stove to the roof (10' off the peak) is about 25'.

I will mount the stove on a tile slab that I make from leftover tiles. I have 2 wood beams running horizontal that the exhaust pipe will pass by within 6 inches. I will either wrap the beams in fire retardant cloth or mount cement board in front of the beams.

What other considerations should I be making?

I had a sight unseen install quote of $3900 for this job and I feel confident that I can do it for much, much less.

  • You'll do better on this site with more clear and direct questions, though you might still get some good answers
    – Ack
    Dec 8 '20 at 19:05
  • Make sure you transition to double- or triple-wall pipe when you penetrate the ceiling, depending on local code.
    – FreeMan
    Dec 8 '20 at 19:11
  • I would put a very thick base, thermal mass, of concrete or pavers under your tiles and a thick cement board barrier between the stove and the wall. These will capture heat and radiate heat into the space.
    – Alaska Man
    Dec 8 '20 at 19:35

Regardless of what you prefer, you need to meet both the requirements of your town/city/county (LAHJ) for proper woodstove installation, and your insurance company's standards, unless you operate "at risk" without insurance.

Both of those entities will almost certainly require transitioning to UL Listed Class A insulated chimney before leaving the room. If the beams in question are at, near (and you transition to class A before passing them), or in the ceiling space that will likely also address protecting them adequately, since those systems have much smaller clearances to combustibles than uninsulated single-wall stovepipe.

You will need to extend the exterior chimney at least 2 feet above the peak of the roof (2 feet above the highest part of the roof within 10 feet is the code language, so far as I recall at present.) You might be able to save money on Class A Chimney by locating the class A chimney at the peak of the roof (where it only has to stick up 2 feet above the peak) and angling the singlewall pipe to the center in the room below. That position is also less prone to leaks than a chimney sticking out 10 feet down the slope of the roof.

You will need to give consideration to access for cleaning your stovepipe and chimney, as well. A long run of singlewall can help to heat the space, but it also serves as a great place to collect creosote and start chimney fires.

It may also be required (and would be advisable regardless of that) to install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in the space.

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