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I have a rest room here, but the door and the room it self doesn't have enough elevation. So, every time we took a shower or even minor bathroom tasks, the water almost always leak like crazy.

I know, this is already a faulty masonry, and I can't complain anymore due to the worker of this project is already out of town for good.

So, right now, my only solution is to put a rubber stopper on top of the tiles, but the adhesive for that is only a double-sided tape.

Now, what I want to know is, what adhesive can I use to properly stick this rubber on top of the tiles?

Here is the photo for reference.

Door reference-actual

The white rubber is for "stopping" water. This is only for temporary as, we don't have the same tile already. And I cannot buy a whole box for one to two tiles replacement.

Edit: These two photos below

The one with the black outline, is the inclination from the bathroom to outside.

For the rubber, yeah, it's short that's why I'm planning to buy another that is sufficient. But I don't wanna use the double-sided tape that comes with it.

Room Inclination

Gap

Edit2: added photo with wall

With wall

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    It is difficult to see what is what on this photo. Can you upload some photos please including the full wall to get some perspective?
    – IamOnStage
    Dec 8, 2020 at 12:13
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    Yes, a wider view picture to give an overall idea of what we're looking at would be very helpful. For example, it appears that the white rubber doesn't go all the way to the edge of whatever it's attached to, thus leaving what looks to be a 1" (25mm) gap at the right hand edge. If that's the case, no adhesive change will cover that gap & water will continue to escape.
    – FreeMan
    Dec 8, 2020 at 13:20
  • I added picture for it @IamOnStage. But that's as wide as I can the room is so cramp Dec 9, 2020 at 1:07
  • Also @FreeMan, yeah, I will buy a longer rubber stopper for it. But the problem is the adhesive that comes with it. It doesn't really stick on the tile even when I gave it 12 hours cure time. Dec 9, 2020 at 1:10

3 Answers 3

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The extra pics help.

Looks like 2 issues (3, now that I think about it some more):

  1. The drain is running slowly so water is building up above the shower stall ledge. If this is the case, then you need to ask a new question about fixing the drain because that sounds like the #1 issue. You can also search here for questions about cleaning drains.

  2. The rubber dam you've added doesn't go all the way to the edge, so water running down the door runs out onto the floor.

  3. The door may not seal well along the wall, allowing water to pass between the glass and wall.

The ideal solution would be for the glass to be inside the shower stall. That way any water on the door will drip into the shower pan instead of the floor outside the pan. However, that's probably beyond a quick fix now that it's all installed.

Since you're not likely going to be remounting the door, a good quality silicone sealant should be sufficient to glue the dam down to the floor.

Additionally, note that if you leave the door open after a shower, water will run down the door and onto the floor on the outside of the dam. Nothing but mopping/toweling will get rid of this water, especially once you've lengthened the dam to completely separate the 2 areas.

Consider getting a sweep that attaches to the door glass instead of a dam (which also acts an additional trip hazard attached to the floor).

  • You can use the same silicone to adhere the sweep to the door as you would the dam to the tile.
  • Most of the water that drips on the floor when the door is open will be squeegied into the shower pan area when you close the shower door.
  • You can use a sweep attached to the vertical sides of the door to help seal the door against the walls to prevent (or reduce) water from escaping there.
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  • The sweep is a good idea, also the silicone sealant. I might just combine the two. Dec 10, 2020 at 0:58
  • Also for issue number 1, yeah, it kinda like that but not really to the point it overflows. But sometimes it does but did not overflow, when my dog's fur are in the drain, which we clean every two days. Dec 10, 2020 at 1:06
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Tile glue/cement(if its laying about) or even wet area silicone(better)(must be of acid type) can be used as to glue ontop of the tile , but it will be hard to remove.

If i were you maybe try some draft stoppers full of sand for a makeshift water dam?.Floor needed to be graded with self leveling compound before tiles were put down , or even corrected using a technique called mudding (excessive adhesive to provide slight grade towards the drain).

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    Why would it need to be acid type? Yes many silicone type sealers are but I use contact cement all the time and that is solvent based. There non acid sealers also that would work.
    – Ed Beal
    Dec 9, 2020 at 15:47
  • @Ed Beal, what brand of solvent based silicone sealant are you using? Dec 10, 2020 at 1:01
  • Yes, @binaryOps, I will try the silicone thing. I can't afford to rework the room now. Dec 10, 2020 at 1:03
  • Joshua , the statement was I use contact cement all the time and that is solvent based. Contact cement is great for anchoring dissimilar materials together like rubber and tile, or wood to Formica.
    – Ed Beal
    Dec 10, 2020 at 1:10
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The only solution that will be long-term (and I am not sure anything is long-term in a shower with innate problems) is that you need to:

  1. Take door off.
  2. Put a high threshold (you can get 2" marble thresholds for $20) all the way across.
  3. Mount door higher.

You can also build your own threshold and tile it or whatever.

If you don't do this you might as well start demo'ing this thing as the extra stress from all of the water in this bathroom will start eating up things within a year.

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  • Yes, thanks for the advise. I will absolutely do this but not now. I can't afford reconstructing it by now, due to no mason available and basically no money left to spend on it. But definitely want to reconstruct this room. Thanks! Dec 10, 2020 at 1:09
  • This is not reconstructing the room it is adding a wall to one side of your pool and then raising the door by a couple inches. Someone with right tools would have this done in an hour. Gluing that rubber thing down right won't solve your issue and will cause more issues and cost you more money.
    – DMoore
    Dec 10, 2020 at 4:29

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