The electrician for my basement finish went a little overboard on the framing in this particular spot. Both to gain access to the wall where the new subpanel was put in and to route the wiring. I'm wondering if this is going to be okay or do I need to seek out somebody to repair it? If it does need repair, what is the correct way to go about fixing this?

Full Framing Image

At least he put in a drill plate...

Top Plate

Drill Plate

  • 1
    They way those two 10/2 (or 10/3) cables cross the bay then go back just screams sloppy workmanship, though there's nothing truly wrong with it that I'm aware of.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Nov 30, 2020 at 15:15
  • I disagree with it being sloppy. The sparky is required to staple everything in that section of the stud bay. It can be difficult to staple so many cables in the center of the stud, so often they'll jump across simply to find space. The resulting bends are gentle and the added wire length is negligible.
    – isherwood
    Commented Nov 30, 2020 at 15:48
  • Is that a post supporting an engineered beam, with a huge hole drilled in the post? If so, I would get that looked at. I'd guess any engineer would CYA and advise replacing the post, if indeed that's what it is. Commented Nov 30, 2020 at 16:57

1 Answer 1


That's all fairly typical, and I don't see anything concerning. The electrician could've kept things a bit cleaner by either going easier with the auger bit or notching the stud cleanly instead. They're in a hurry, like everyone else, though.

The holes in the wall plates only remove a minor portion of the width of the plate (which appears to be 2x6). It does carry one floor joist, but that could as well be carried by a 2x4 wall, so it's fine. I would pilot and install a screw to secure that split plate shard just to prevent a bulge in the drywall. Be sure to not pinch the cables. They must remain free to move.

If a repair was deemed necessary for some reason not evident here, a short double-2x6 header behind the wires with trimmer studs to the bottom plate would do.

The large hole in the flatwise stud doesn't really matter because that stud isn't critical to begin with.

I would consider replacing the nails in the protective steel plate with flathead screws, countersunk to be flush. That'll help with what might otherwise be a visible bulge in your drywall. Even nails with smaller heads would help. You could use trim nails and drive them flush. They just need to keep the plate from sliding around before the drywall goes up.

  • I must say that when zoomed in on that 1st pic, so much wood was removed that the edge of the plate split off. Now the wiring goes next to the bottom of the 2 top plates, instead of through it. I'd presume that's OK since it's held in place by the top top plate, right? Also, good catch on the nails - as thick as those heads are, they look like joist-hangar nails and it looks like there's still paper from the strip that held 'em together in the gun they were fired from! They may be tough to pull - the heads may need to be ground off after replacement nails are installed.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Nov 30, 2020 at 15:13
  • I don't know that holes in framing are considered valid cable retention devices anyway. It's not relevant that they're not intact. The cables should be stapled per the NEC schedule without regard for framing penetrations.
    – isherwood
    Commented Nov 30, 2020 at 15:36

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