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The blubs have flickered and gone out on this light in my kitchen.

enter image description here

How can I open this fixture? I have taken one of the plates off but I wasn't sure is that was the right place to look. I heard a lot of these are clipped on and/or slide. Could that be the case with my fixture?

Here is an image of the open side panel: enter image description here

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  • can you lift the plastic into the housing and then slide it to the side? – ratchet freak Nov 24 '20 at 8:52
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    99.99% certain @ratchetfreak is right. Lift, slide to one side or the other, get an edge free, then pull the cover out toward the other side. – FreeMan Nov 24 '20 at 11:29
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First, Are you entirely sure this is a fluorescent fixture and not an integrated LED fixture? Because it's awfully, awfully thin for a fluorescent. The only tubes I can imagine even having a chance of fitting are T5s (5/8" diameter).

However, fluorescent fixtures never require tools to get the tubes out. IF this was fluorescent - and it's very much my hunch that it is not - you would push upward a little bit (1/8" or so) along one of the long edges (either one) and then slide it toward the edge, making the other side pop out, i.e.

enter image description here

However I wouldn't do a whole lot of pushing. If this doesn't happen easily, the next step is to presume it's a bulbless LED, and search it for a model number or identifying marks, so you can search for that and see if it is.

What's the deal with bulbless LEDs? Isn't that bad? Sure, I get it. We all grew up our whole lives with every type of lightmaker - incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, HID - all having the bulb as the weak link/consumable. So it's hard to believe that with LEDs, the lightmaker is actually the most durable part. But it is silicon electronics - and when's the last time you changed a transistor on a stereo or TV? But vacuum tube TVs and stereos required changing them all the time - to the point where historians/purists had to learn to make their own vacuum tubes!

Now, the weak points are in the electronic power supply that converts AC power into the correct current of DC for the LEDs. Cheap components (notably capacitors), solder (RoHS lead-free solder that crystallizes; many PCB problems these days are cured by running the board through a solder reflow) and other electronics-side stuff - but not the LEDs proper. Those will outlive all of us.

Of course this is cold comfort if your fixture is kaput. Most of us don't want to pull down LED fixtures and carefully identify the constant-current electronic driver and find another one of the same form-factor. So it's down to replace the whole fixture - and learn the lesson that the supplier isn't very good.

Given the way our markets are being flooded with cheap junk (especially Amazon!!), this type of failure is shamefully common. I myself have chosen to stay with real fluorescent, because a GE ballast and Sylvania tubes are safe choices.

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  • Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately I'm almost positive that these are fluorescent tubes unless the LEDs were designed to flicker for a week or so before going out completely. The height of the lighting fixture is about 2 inches high. You diagram is almost perfect but there is plastic that goes over the edge that prevents me from pushing up on the sides. I have tried pushing and pulling from all angles and I can not seem to make it budge. The fluorescent light fixture in the bathroom is brand PONY if that helps. – willi Nov 29 '20 at 0:53
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Most of those need you to grip both long sides of the plastic cover and squeeze then push one side back into the groove and drop the other edge out.

If it is old, then be careful as some plastics go brittle...

Another option is to use a prying tool (small screwdriver or flat blade and gently work along.

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