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GE has their PowerMark Gold series subpanels. Some of those are main lug that are convertible to main breaker.

I bought one of those panels

(https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-125-Amp-14-Spaces-24-Circuit-Convertible-Main-Breaker-Panel-Load-Center/1091073?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--elc--google--lia--206--switchgear--1091073-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5JKbiYKZ7QIVir3ACh3W0gu2EAQYByABEgJ_2fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds).

It does have the instructions for hooking up a back feed breaker in the upper right slot but doesn’t say how to configure with a separate kit.

(https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-PowerMark-Gold-125-Amp-2-Pole-Main-Circuit-Breaker-Conversion-Kit-THQMH125CP/100118346).

The kit also doesn’t say anything about the breaker panel cover.

The breaker cover panel does not have a knock out for that. Am I supposed to cut an opening for it or are these conversion kits not compatible?

Is cutting the breaker cover allowed by code?enter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description here

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    For about $60 more, you can get a GE 200 amp panel with 40 spaces and and several breakers included - which makes up for much of the price difference. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Nov 24 '20 at 1:58
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    @Gregory -- is this panel going to be a main panel or a subpanel? – ThreePhaseEel Nov 24 '20 at 2:03
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    Subpanel. Main is 200 amp. I’d like this to be 240v/ 100 amp. – Gregory Nov 24 '20 at 2:07
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    So the main on the subpanel is only acting as a shutoff; it’s not providing any protection other than that? – Gregory Nov 24 '20 at 2:13
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    Y’all have been great! Thank you so much. – Gregory Nov 24 '20 at 2:32
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You need to use a backfed main with a THQLRK3 hold-down...

Your panel, unfortunately, is not compatible with the TQMH000 main breaker adapter kit you are contemplating. This is denoted on the diagram by the box labeled "MAIN" taking up two branch breaker spaces, instead of being above the branch breaker "stack".

...or just get a larger panel

However, there's an easy way to forestall all this, and that's simply to take the panel back and get something chunkier. Going up to a 24-space, 125A or even a 30- or 40-space panel isn't that much more expensive, and means you don't have to agonize over panel spaces nearly as much. You won't need to replace the main breaker in the bigger panel, either, since you're fitting a subpanel. (It's either an easy way to get the required shutoff means for a subpanel in an outbuilding, or can simply be replaced by main lugs if the subpanel is in the same building as the panel feeding it.)

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  • This is great. I was operating under the assumption that 1) I needed to match breaker size and 2) that it may be less desirable to use a 150 or 200 or whatever larger panel. It sounds like both of those assumptions are incorrect. I have no problem spending an additional $63.75 to make this easier. So I’ll just return these and look for a main breaker panel with a 100+ amp rating with 20 or maybe 118 spaces. Grin. – Gregory Nov 24 '20 at 2:30
  • @Gregory -- eheheh. the PowerMark line goes up to 42 spaces because GE is silly and hasn't quite caught up to a 12-year-old code change. (Other makes do better -- Siemens goes up to 54 spaces, while Eaton and Square-D both go up to 60) – ThreePhaseEel Nov 24 '20 at 2:34
  • And it won't even really be $63.75 because you get a few "free" breakers. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Nov 24 '20 at 2:35

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