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My design includes a frameless shower glass enclosure
This is for a corner and it will have two fixed glass panels

I am now building the framing and I am trying to understand if I should provide support in the framing for the clamps that will support panels

These will not be floor to ceiling pannels and no support rods are planned as they will be ~40" and ~30" wide

I would have two clamps on the wall and one on the shower base for each panel My plan is to run 2 horizontals made of a 2x4 segment that will be screwed to the studs as seen in the below picture.
My problem is that I do not know yet what shower panels I am going to get and what would be the best position for the clamps
enter image description here

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This blocking to support the glass panels should be 2x6 or 2x8 and should be placed with the wide side facing the room, but in the plane of the studs (interior side).

You should also place 2x8 blocking inside the walls of the shower for later placement of grab bars in the shower. This should definitely be on the long wall and the back wall. There should be grab bars on the control wall, but you have to be carefull placing blocking inside the control wall to insure it does not interfere with the water supply pipes.

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  • I was thinking that installing 2x4s as depicted gives the screw more material to anchor in. You gave a good point that adding 2x8 or 2x6 give me a large margin fir the position of the clamps later on. ....handles...I did not plan for those but I will consider it – MiniMe Nov 15 '20 at 23:57
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Knowing here the shower curb is going to be and therefore the shower glass, I don't sweat the height of the blocks by placing a 2X6 vertically centered over the curb, kept in place by short horizontal blocks between the studs in 2 or 3 places, set 1 1/2" back from the face of the studs. That will allow the vertical 2x6 to be in plane with the ace of the studs. It also comes in handy for changing the wall material from drywall to cement board.

Jim Steward is right about the extra blocking, I use 3/4" plywood for much of that type of blocking, ripped to approx. 12" wide, cut to the width of the studs, held in place with toenails. More than enough to hold hardware of any sort. Grab bars are typically set at 36" toilet paper holders between 26 and 30" towel bars around 4'.

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  • Using a full size 2x8 vertically places might become a problem if you have 1.5" vent pipes (dry vents) in the walls – MiniMe Nov 16 '20 at 5:28
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    @MiniMe , I imagine it would be the same if it was blocks placed horizontally, but it also could be 3/4" plywood cut to the width of the span between the studs. I have had to do that before when piping was in the same bay. But if you are using a 2X8 instead of something smaller, may also get it close enough to a stud to directly nail it to so no cross blocking would be needed. – Jack Nov 16 '20 at 6:46
  • much of that stuff can be fixed directly to a 10mm (3/16) fibre-cement backing, but I wopuldn't trust drywall to support it. – Jasen Nov 17 '20 at 19:32

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