Related to this question. Even though I might be cluttering up SE with questions about driving drywall screws, I feel they will ultimately be helpful since I have been unsuccessful in finding images of properly-driven drywall screws. Plus, it's a good thing to know how to do properly. Now onto the content of my question:

Today, I talked to the superintendent of the company I hired to hang drywall on my ceiling and addressed my concerns about the improperly-driven screws (see link to other question above). I had already addressed this concern twice before, but I was assured that there was nothing to be concerned about, that they have done thousands of homes like this and have never had any problems. This time, though, I pushed a little harder and I think I struck a nerve because now the superintendent, project manager, and one of the workers are coming out tomorrow to "see what they can do" about the contract.

Feeling guilty about criticizing the quality of their work and in spite of all the support I have gathered from SE members, I wondered if I was wrong about their screws being driven improperly. I decided to break out a spare length of 2x4 and some scrap drywall I had laying around and put a few screws into it using my own drywall bit. The results, in my opinion, look great. I actually believe I drove these screws the way any true professional would. No paper was broken and no torn fibers are exploding out all over. It looks neat and crisp. The heads recess into the surface and there is no contact when I scrape a putty knife across the sheet. When they come tomorrow, I want to show them this sample piece I put together and hopefully let it serve as a far better example of how drywall screws should be driven.

If I can get some feedback on my drywall-driving skills, that'd be great.

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    Yes, that is the proper depth at which a sheetrock screw should be driven. The rock is dimpled with enough of a pocket to hold the compound, yet does not weaken the board.
    – Gunner
    Commented Nov 19, 2012 at 1:53
  • Excellent example of what they should look like. Great pics too. Hold your ground, it's your money so they do it your way. Show them the samples you made. And NO, professional drywall hangers do not do them as they did on your job. 95% use a DeWalt drywall gun like in the pics I sent you. Commented Nov 19, 2012 at 10:08
  • Well, I am going against my better judgement here and just having them finish. The holes have already been mudded and taped and I only have three pics to show examples of some of the worst drives. I should have raised more of an issue with it the first time I saw it, but I didn't, so there's a lesson learned. I knew I should have hung it myself. Commented Nov 19, 2012 at 11:49
  • Also, there is Green Glue on the back of these sheets. While I have said several times here that Green Glue is not an adhesive, it still has grab. When I tore down that suspended, double-layer/GG wall a few weeks back that I had put up last year at this time, it was impossible to pull the sheets apart. The drywall would crumble and break before it would separate. I'll also add that the pics I posted of their drives in my other question were the worst of, not an example of every screw, but many still broke the paper even if it was by only 1/16". Commented Nov 19, 2012 at 12:06
  • @oscilatingcretin Don't ever feel guilty about insisting a job be done right. Commented Nov 19, 2012 at 12:11

2 Answers 2


Yes, that is the proper depth at which a sheetrock screw should be driven. The rock is dimpled with enough of a pocket to hold the compound, yet does not weaken the board


They look great to me and I've done my own for years.

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