The picture below shows the situation as it is right now.

I need to rebuild the frame on the wall where you see the vertical red and blue water supply pipes. So the plan is to remove the two vertical studs to the left and to the right of the pipes and cut the pipes near the top. I will put pex there and reroute the pipes toward the perpendicular wall you can guess in the picture.

The empty space to the left (no studs and framing there is because I removed an air duct and more piping for the sink that was there. That left in place a lot of not needed framing and patch work that had to go

After doing this I need to extend the two white horizontals to complete the framing and add frames as per standard every other 16".
Removing the top white 2x4 (the top of the frame) is out of question for two reasons:
-it hat the pipes going through it and it will be difficult to put it back
-since it is extended to the right into the wall of the next room that adds structural resistance> It is also nailed to the joists (this is a basement bathroom)

The guys who built this put the bottom horizontal studs floating on smaller pieces of wood (you can guess it to the bottom right side of the picture)

What is the standard solution in situations like this? How do I bridge the horizontals together ? It is very important for me to have a perfect alignment of the horizontal bottom 2x4 that will extend each other. If I leave the two horizontals in place I will not be able to use nails and I think I have to options, use screws and an angle attachment for my drill or use angle brackets to secure the vertical studs ?

enter image description here

There is two issues here: extending the plates and removing the old/oddly spaced studs and adding new one properly spaced back.
For the top plate which I need to leave in place I will not have access from the above to properly nail or screw the new studs so I am considering brackets (?) Is it possible? For the plates I am not clear how and if I have to extend them somehow or simply close the frame there and create a new smaller one adjacent to the just closed one. I need the bottom plate in one piece so I might cut it and add a longer one like below (so I need to connect in #1 and cut and replace in #2)
enter image description here

After a long research I found something like what I am thinking about enter image description here enter image description here

Update 2

I need to bridge in #1 and #2 -how do I do that ? enter image description here

  • You don't want to use the plate bent over the face of the stud/sole plate as shown in the bottom left picture. That will interfere with getting your wall board on.
    – FreeMan
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:38
  • that is correct if it is used the way it is shown but you can install it on the other side
    – MiniMe
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:40
  • My guess was that you wanted to finish both sides of the wall.
    – FreeMan
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:44
  • no -this is basement and the framing is on the wall that is facing the ground around the house
    – MiniMe
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:53
  • Good luck getting those bent around the side of the framing that's against the concrete and getting screws driven from the concrete side.
    – FreeMan
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:54

4 Answers 4


Toe nailing is acceptable so anything stronger like repair brackets or structural screws will work too.


There are metal bracket products for this, but I don't understand why you need one.

Add a piece of blocking under the break in the top plate (bottom, too, if you want) or add an extra stud where the plates break.

  • ok I added more info see the update please
    – MiniMe
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:32
  • Build a short section of wall laying down on the floor.
    • Have the stud at the right-hand edge hanging 1/2 off the bottom and top plates.
    • Measure your 16" OC from this guy on the right to make spacing as consistent as possible.
    • You will have a short gap somewhere, that's fine.
  • Stand the wall up, wedging it between the floor and the bottom of the joists. This will be a snug fit because the wall will be taller at an angle than it will be standing up vertically.
  • That 1/2 off stud should overlap the top and bottom plate that are currently swinging in the breeze.
  • Once it's vertical and it the proper position, nail up through the top plate to attach it to each joist above. You can nail down from the joist to the top plate, too, if you want.
  • Toe nail from the overlapped stud into the existing top & bottom plate (going from the left, up and into the existing top plate to the right).

Based on your drawing, you'll have 2 studs very close together where the existing piece of top/bottom plate end, but that's fine - it's better having the top plate waving in the breeze.

  • Please have a look at the last picture added showing the bridging that I need. I don't think that your suggestion covers or fits that scenario, does it?
    – MiniMe
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:54
  • It covers the scenario that was present when I typed the answer. A continually modified and updated question is a tough target to chase and I'm not up for that this morning. If this isn't helpful, then please don't upvote it.
    – FreeMan
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:55
  • last sketch is a clarification of the previous one (removed the studs to make that part of the question more clear)
    – MiniMe
    Nov 4, 2020 at 12:59

Here is what seems to be a documented answer https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-030-advanced-framing#Fig06:~:text=Single%20top%20plates%20seem%20to%20be,framing%20by%20using%20something%20called%20braces.

enter image description here

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