First, how does the door operate when worked manually? The garage door opener is an even bigger menace than WD-40, because it conceals developing problems, and makes them worse because it forces motion that a tactile human would not force, accelerating the damage.
So operating it manually... when does it bind? At the bottom when just opening? That's a problem with the door seals; the spacing is not correct. Look for places where it seems to be binding, and meanwhile, paint the entire door seal area with graphite lubricant paint, and if able, the mating surface on the door proper. It has the advantage of NOT being sticky and attracting dirt. John Deere dealers sell the graphite paint, as do many others.
On the rollers... carefully inspect each roller with the door in the DOWN position. Are any of them getting wobbly, like quite wobbly? That's a "replace it". Do a great deal of research before replacing any rollers on the very bottom of the door, unless you want to win a Darwin Award.
Inspect the roller tracks for obvious broken-ness and/or seas of crud in the roller tracks. It would have to be a lot of crud. Grease and oil are bad news on roller tracks, you are better off not lubricating the roller tracks at all. If you must, use that graphite paint - and focus on the flat side and outside, don't bother with the scooped side, the rollers roll there.
Hinges are probably not a big deal. You'll notice if they are.
Also check for any broken lift cables or broken springs. Mind you, either one is a "call a pro" job, or a "research like you really, really, really do not want an embarrassing obituary" job. Because all that stuff can kill you.