This plaque has two screw holes in the back. I would like to mount it tight to my wall, but I don't know how to attach it to the wall.

enter image description here

  • What metal is it made of? Looks like brass/bronze? How heavy is it?
    – Criggie
    Oct 18 '20 at 0:11
  • 1
    what is the wall made of? ... what do you mean by flush?
    – jsotola
    Oct 18 '20 at 1:25
  • @jsotola Probably as flat as possible to the wall, likely with the use of countersinks. This would involve a lot of damage to the wall.
    – Mast
    Oct 19 '20 at 7:50
  • if damage to the wall is allowed, then double sided tape could be the way to go
    – jsotola
    Oct 19 '20 at 14:25
  • 1
    @Tim Unless OP is abusing a very expensive tilt-shift lens, has slot screws with heads the size of your fist, and a table with impossibly huge grain, I think we don't really need to worry about this being two feet large.
    – J...
    Oct 19 '20 at 15:12

13 Answers 13


I would fabricate or locate a a hanger with a single hole for the screw and a hanger loop. Use your machine screw to mount the hanger loop to the plaque and hang it on a standard picture hanger suitable for your wall type. You could swap to flush screws if it stuck out too much and put spacer shims on the sides in back if needed so it sits flat enter image description here

enter image description here


Depending how much damage you can do to the wall - it may be feasible to put two steel grub screws in the holes so they are flush, and to secure two neodymium magnets embedded/glued in the wall at the same offset.

If you can't find suitable grub screws, the pictured bolts could work, if you hacksaw off the end and thread that stub into the plaque.

If the plaque were made of ferrous metal (steel, iron) that reacts to a magnet, then you could dispense with the screws completely.

Your magnets should be strong enough to hold the whole plaque's weight individually. Having two will give some headroom in an earthquake or other impact.


You would have to drill through the wall from the other side, then run the screws through from the other side of the wall. That's the only way to get this flush against the wall with 2 screws.

If you wanted to hang it from 1 screw, you would have to embed the head of the screw into the wall, then carefully align one of the sets of threads with the screw, then spin the whole plaque around to screw it onto the screw sticking out of the wall.

Since neither of these seem particularly practical, I'd suggest you may want to mount this to a thin piece of wood, like 1/4" plywood or 1/8" hardboard (where you can easily drill 2 holes and run the screws from the back side), then mount the wood into a frame of some sort (or build a frame around the wood), then hang the frame on the wall. This has the added benefit of allowing you to put a piece of glass/plexiglass over the front, if you desire, to protect this (heirloom?) piece and keep dust off of it.


enter image description here

Enough said about that. Frankly, a little relief shadow probably makes this display better.


If the wall is hollow, you can use a toggle bolt the same size as the threads tapped in the plaque. Use it with a piece of threaded rod, or cut the head off the bolt. You'd first thread the rod into the tapped hole on your plaque - in effect the plaque becomes the head of the bolt - then spin the plaque to cinch down the toggle bolt. This will be a lot less tedious if you use a snaptoggle or similar rather than a standard old fashioned toggle bolt but that's usually true with regular toggle bolts, they work great but they can be aggravating.


If it's a solid masonry wall, or you can place the plaque over a stud, there's a fastener called a "hanger bolt" that will work. It's basically a bolt that starts as a lag screw (goes into wood) and ends as a machine screw (goes into metal).

hanger bolt

You would want a hanger bolt with threads that match the threads on your plaque (looks like 1/4-20 maybe). You'd drill a pilot hole if it's a stud, or set your anchor if it's masonry, and set the hanger bolt to the exact right depth, then spin on your plaque. There's a special bit made for driving hanger bolts that you would need.

If you don't want to buy the bit, you could try installing the hanger bolt on your plaque, then using that to spin it into the pilot hole, but there's a slight chance the torque would damage your plaque. If you make sure the pilot hole is on the big side and soap up the lag threads, it probably wouldn't be a problem.

If you spin on the plaque, the attachment will be strong but the bottom will not be fixed. You could probably pry it up a little and slip a piece of double sided tape or a dot of epoxy back there if you're concerned about that.

  • 2
    Your answer is probably more practical.
    – FreeMan
    Oct 18 '20 at 12:51
  • 1
    +1 for the original hangar bolt suggestion, not so sure about the toggle bolt option. If I'm picturing your description properly, you'd still only be able to use 1 screw, as I'm envisioning spinning the plaque around the screw thread in the toggle bolt. Correct me if I'm wrong...
    – FreeMan
    Oct 19 '20 at 12:46
  • @Freeman, that is correct, you'd be setting the rod in the top hole of the plaque, then setting the butterfly on the rod, pushing it in the wall, and pulling out while spinning the plaque (last step is where the aggravation is likely). Oct 19 '20 at 13:44

I'd fit eye bolts to the bolt holes and make some springs out of fencing wire

enter image description here

cut two holes in the drywall, feed the springs pull the hook ends out through the holes (using strings I attached before feeding the springs in) and hook the plaque on.


Assuming you want it mounted more or less permanently and the wall is gyprock or the like:

  • Mark where you want it on the wall, specifically the two mounting points on the shield;
  • Cut out a rectangle of the wall about the mounting points sized larger than the shield and appropriate for reattaching;
  • Cut through the rectangle at the mounting points sized to allow the knobs on the back of the shield to fit through;
  • Using thin strips of stiff metal (or wood), fasten the shield to the rectangle from its back with the screws;
  • Reattach the rectangle to the wall, tape, mud, and paint.

Reverse when you sell the house and want to take the shield with you:)


I would put a single nail on the wall and then some double-sided tape on the back of the plaque. Hang it on the nail by one of the holes and let the double-sided tape make sure it stays straight and in place.

Considering the weight of a metal plaque, double-sided tape alone might not be enough. But when you use a nail to hold most of the weight, the tape will stay in place.

  • 1
    I don't think I'd trust tape on that rough metal. Foam tape, maybe, but you'd need to use the permanent type and it would likely pull paper when removed.
    – isherwood
    Oct 19 '20 at 16:51
  • 1
    @isherwood One classic trick is to apply removable tape to the wall if it is smooth enough to hold it, and permanent tape to the metal surface which can take more intensive cleaning afterward. Then stick the two tapes together.
    – jpa
    Oct 20 '20 at 4:08
  • Or use removable hook-and-loop tape on both.
    – Jasen
    Oct 21 '20 at 19:24


Unless you plan on swinging from it, or I've interpreted the scale badly & it's 12" across not 3", it will last forever.
Also, considerably less faff than any of the existing methods ;)

  • 2
    Blu-Tack is not great on metal, and leaves a really bad stain on painted surfaces.
    – Nelson
    Oct 18 '20 at 17:24
  • 1
    @Nelson - As opposed to drilling holes in the wall… ? Blu-tack can mark wallpaper slightly & if it's been there a long time could pull the surface off when removed, but I've never known it mark anything else. I don't see how it's 'not great on metal' either, It works on anything short of sand, if you prep it properly. I have blu-tacked bits fastened to things around the house that have been up 25 years.
    – Tetsujin
    Oct 18 '20 at 17:29
  • In my experience blu-tack tends to eventually lose its grip, especially when holding something heavy. If you want to go the adhesive route I think something like command strips are a better long term solution
    – Kevin
    Oct 19 '20 at 16:59

Clearly this object is worthy of display for you and your friends to admire.

As such it would be fitting to display it in manner befitting its status.

You can purchase, or make, a nice or rustic wood plaque. Stain it or paint it to match your taste/decor. Old barn-wood, nice oak, cheap pine.

Drill a hole for a screw, countersink the hole on the back side of the plaque for the head of the screw. The screw will pass through the wood and into the tab with threads on the back of the item to hold the item to the plaque.

You can mount the plaque on the wall in one of many ways, like a picture frame or with fancy mounting clips or keyhole brackets. Or just drill a partial hole, not all the way through the wood, and use a nail or screw in your wall to hang the plaque on.


A 3M Command strip. Little to no damage to the wall, will sit flush. Should be plenty strong to hold it to the wall- I've had one hold up my wife's holiday wreath to the front door outside in freezing temperatures and it lasted just fine.

If in doubt, use two.


There's a lot of useful info already posted, but I'm going to change this up a bit. I'd suggest mounting this to a plaque first, then flush mount the plaque to the wall.

I'd suggest either 1" nominal wood or 3/4" plastic/acrylic/polycarbonate, so you can easily counter sink for the mount points on the back of your shield. Then you can drill through the plaque and anchor the shield to the plaque, also counter sinking the heads of the attachment bolts. Then you can use a keyhole router bit to create a slot for 1 or 2 mounting points on the plaque. This will allow you to use standard nails or screws to flush mount the plaque to the wall.

If you have the tools, or the right friend(s), you can do this with metal, but you'll also need to think about how heavy the end product will be. If using aluminum, you can probably get away without drywall anchors, but even a 1/4" piece of steel might be heavy enough to need those anchors.

It takes some time and effort to do this, but I think it'll be more what you're really looking for. Also, most of the other methods listed won't actually have your item flush mounted to the wall anyway. And the large majority of them mean you can't remove it or will cause damage to your walls when you do eventually remove it.

Using a plaque, you can essentially frame the piece (and do it in a variety of colors, sizes, and shapes) to make it more prominent and more of a talking piece, instead of just another knickknack stuck to a wall.


Note the mounting screw bosses are fairly thick. You don't want the plaque sitting proud of the wall by that distance, eh?

Fit 3 metal junction boxes into the wall, connected by EMT metal conduit. Two of them are vertical to each other, and the spacing of those bosses. The third is in any reachable location that will be unobtrusive. If at all possible, mount the boxes to a joist - force on these will be considerable, hence the EMT.

Now, at each boss, use a short screw to attach a strong but short spring, and then run strong picture hanging wire from the free end of the spring. Fish the picture hanging wire down the EMT conduit to the third box. While an assistant guides the plaque, pull firmly on those picture wires, pulling it flush to the wall. Then have the assistant keep the wires taut, while you add a cable clamp of some kind that keeps the wires from withdrawing back into the conduit.

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