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I want to hang pegboard in my shed, which has exposed wooden studs (2x4). Most instructions for hanging pegboard say to screw them to the outward facing side of the studs (the 1.5" side) to span the studs.

What I want to do is hang the pegboard inside the 'box' made by the studs, so I can inset it 2-3" (most instructions I'm seeing say you need 1/2" behind the pegboard). It's a small shed, and the 2-3" of extra space I would get by having things hang between the studs would be welcome.

I figured I would just use corner braces, bolt them to the pegboard and screw into the sides of the studs and crossbeams (was thinking 1/2" screws, so I could hang on both sides of a given stud), but I couldn't find examples of anyone doing that, so I wanted to make sure it wasn't a bad idea. Is that going to be too weak?

Here's a diagram of what I want to do - the pegboard would fill the whole 'box,' but I cut it halfway so you can see it is offset from the back. The braces are just on there willy-nilly for illustrative, not planning, purposes.

pegboard hung inside studs

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    Corner braces, do you mean angle brackets? I would think just ripping some 1/2" furring strips and screwing them into the stud bay, around the perimeter and a few cross wise for support in the middle, would be easier or simpler. Then screw pegboard to furring strips.
    – Alaska Man
    Sep 23, 2020 at 19:14
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    Well, I haven't gotten all this terminology down yet, but the ones I've got are labeled 'corner braces.' They are basically a 2"L x 1/2"W x 1/16" thick metal folded into a 90° angle, with holes on either side.
    – Sven3B
    Sep 23, 2020 at 19:53
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    Sounds like an answer @AlaskaMan
    – FreeMan
    Sep 24, 2020 at 15:41

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Yes, you can place pegboard between studs, but as you stated, you need some clearance behind the pegboard. You could use 1x1 attached to the side of the studs to screw into. This will give you better holding power than brackets alone.

When I did mine, I used 1x2, but I screwed them in across their width, so I'd have more surface area to screw to. My studs were not exactly spaced and straight so I needed a bit more area to attach.

No glue in my opinion. My garage

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    Agreed, you need something for the screws to grab into behind the pegboard, that's why directly to 2x4, furring strips, or other solid plane is prob a better idea than "floating" L brackets. Also give some thought to the weight of the items you wish to hang. Very heavy and they can pull the pegs or board, breaking peg holes out.
    – Chris Paveglio
    Sep 23, 2020 at 19:32
  • The one-by-one idea has great merit, as it does not have to be limited to the framing of the studs. The OP can run cross pieces to provide additional support, or more verticals and gain additional strength if required.
    – fred_dot_u
    Sep 23, 2020 at 19:34
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    Pardon my ignorance, but by 1x1 are you referring to what would be carried under "dowels" at a store - or is it a separate type of dimensional lumber? Also, I would attach the 1x1 to the studs with screw, as well, yes (as opposed to just wood glue, for example)?
    – Sven3B
    Sep 23, 2020 at 20:05
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    Yes, the 1x1s would be in the dowel area or you could cut down 1x2. No glue
    – UnhandledExcepSean
    Sep 24, 2020 at 13:40

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