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I have purchased a lamp time ago. One of the options why I have choose it, is due to has replaceable bulbs and not integrated leds. After purchasing it, I have unmounted to discover the kind of replaceable led bulb that it has.

Seems a rounded led platform with two simple pins for connections in the back area. I attach some images here:

Front area enter image description here

To be honest, is the first time that I see it and I am not able to find the model on internet due to neither I know the common name for this bulb. Obviously is not a GU10 led bulb or a B22 bulb neither.

Do somebody recognize this model?

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    I think you've been hoodwinked here. Although that's technically replaceable it's not a standard part you can just buy from your local home improvement store. – brhans Sep 23 at 13:16
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    Just as I feared. – King Midas Sep 23 at 13:25
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    There are a number of GU* specifications which have a 2-pin connector, but different spacing. You may try measuring the distance between the pins (center to center) to see if it lines up with any of the GU* spec'd bulbs and try one as a replacement. This assumes, of course, that there is enough depth between the mounting pin location and the bulb cover to allow a "taller" (or "deeper") bulb to fit under the bulb cover. Odds are good, though, that unless this is really cheap, by the time the LEDs burn out, you'll be ready to replace the whole lamp anyway. – FreeMan Sep 23 at 13:54
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    Why do you need replaceable bulbs on an LED? The LED will outlive us all. What you need is replaceable drivers. Those should have sockets lol. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 23 at 17:07
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    @brhans Oh the irony of an OP named King Midas being "hoodwinked" greeka.com/greece-myths/king-midas – Alaska Man Sep 23 at 17:13
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SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM has a number of bulbs similar to what you've shown. You'd have to research the site based on your requirements.

enter image description here

G4 Boat and RV LED Light Bulb - Bi-Pin LED Disc - 15W Equivalent - 130 Lumens

I have no vested (or unvested) interest in the company.

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    Good find JACK. Maybe there's a standard for this after all. But it'd be hard; drivers are custom-matched to arrays. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 23 at 18:18
  • Honestly this looks like a "LED and driver" module, rather similar to the Edison LED screw-ins now sold at every shop. Just with a G4 socket instead of Edison, and probably 12V for the boats. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 23 at 18:38
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica I've bought a number of similar G4 based LED bulbs that run off 12v ac, my landscaping LV transformer... so yes, the driver and rectifier are built in. This did have stuff on the back. – JACK Sep 23 at 18:44
  • Very good answer. If now I search by G4 boat, I can find similar replacement to my lamp. Then, not sure if is the standard name but helps me a lot. Now I only need to find the correct pin pair for my lamp. – King Midas Sep 24 at 8:15
  • @KingMidas How far are your pins apart? A G4 pin separation is 4 mm or a tad more than 5/32" – JACK Sep 24 at 13:18
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You're trying to buy into a paradigm that doesn't exist

You've grown up with incandescent bulbs. They blow out every 750-2000 hours, because they are basically tungsten on fire. So you go "that's why bulbs have sockets".

Then you learn about fluorescents. The electrodes suffer spallation and mercury absorption, so they too eventually fail. That's why they have sockets.

You learn about HID, ditto ditto.

Then you learn about LEDs. And you think "Since incandescent light emitters burn out and need sockets, and fluorescent light emitters burn out and need sockets, and HID light emitters burn out and need sockets... therefore it follows that since an LED is a light emitter, therefore it burns out and LEDs need sockets".

But when you actually stop to think about that thinking... it follows a pattern, but there's not actually any logic to it. What do LEDs actually have in common with those other obvious bulbs? Nothing. Except they emit light.

So LEDs are a blank slate as to the question of whether they burn out. And the answer is, they don't.

Therefore, nobody builds lights with replaceable LED emitters.

Meanwhile, in the real world...

LEDs do die. And what they die of is driver failure. The driver is the electronic module that regulates power to the LED emitters to keep them at the correct current. (it's rather akin to a ballast). The drivers fail because they are cheaply made Chinese, which was the only way the seller could hit the price-point which the buyer (that's you) insisted on.

Of course you have had failed LEDs, and you have fantasized that if only you could pry up the LED emitters you could replace them with good ones and the light would be back. In fact, it's a Chinese capacitor in the driver that has taken a powder. The LED is fine.

In many fixtures, drivers are standardized enough that a spirited search for a replacement driver module can turn up a workable substitute, and you can be back in business.

If you ask me, the darn drivers ought to have sockets and be standardized.

The only cases of LED failure I've seen which weren't that, was where the PC board itself and/or the lead-free RoHS solder failed. This was unrepairable, so into the trash it went. Ironically the FTC sent me a check refunding me the purchase price of that bulb; the company was that disreputable.

There's also a technical reason in the way

Like fluorescent or HID lights, LEDs are dumb and need something external to limit current. You can use a resistor, but you'll sacrifice most of the LED's performance if you do. So most LEDs rely on an active driver that runs them right on-spec.

Driver specs are a specific exact current (e.g. 350mA) at a range of working voltages (e.g. 30-46 volts). (that voltage will vary depending on the LED temperature, age, manufacturing variations etc.)

The driver must be semi-custom matched to the LED. So if we had pluggable LEDs (or drivers), the plugs would have to be keyed so you couldn't plug a 350mA LED into a 700mA driver. Because that would go "boom"! Also, a 48-70V LED just wouldn't work on a 16-30V driver. So we're talking dozens of key shapes.

Where that can work is 12V LEDs, because many of them use simple resistor drivers. I suspect that's what you have there.

Cooling is also a big issue.

When LED emitters run at peak performance, they need a good heat-sink. Just like installing a modern CPU, you have to use the heat transfer goop, and bolt it down very soundly onto the heat sink, with no real margin of error. This is another barrier in the way of field-pluggable LED emitters.

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    @DMoore I doubt it. I'm completely contradicting the person's existing beliefs; people don't accept that without a fair bit of explanation and support. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 23 at 17:58
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    @Harper-ReinstateMonica "people don't accept that without a fair bit of explanation and support" There is large percentage of the populace, apparently a majority in Murica, that when given facts still refuse to accept that their beliefs are erroneous. Good answer. – Alaska Man Sep 23 at 18:09
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica really thanks for your long explanation. I understand now much better the difference of this led boards or the typical led "bulb" used to replace the old ones. – King Midas Sep 24 at 8:12

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