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I had a plumber and electrician do some work and they left a big rectangle open in my garage. I need to repair OSB board, maybe replace insulation, and finally drywall. Not sure if I need to replace, or redo the insulation. Also, can't find anything on OSB repair. Drywall is the easiest it seems.

Could somebody walk me through this? I'm completely new to DIY repairs.

Thank you!

Edit: Thank you for the detailed replies. I'm adding a second picture of the full wall.

Garage wall

Hole

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  1. Extend the hole's right-hand side to the centerline of the next stud.
  2. Cut a piece of OSB to fit the new opening and nail it in place.
  3. Cut a piece of drywall to fit the opening.
  4. Tape and finish the seams as desired. It looks as though this is an unfinished garage to that's probably all you need to do.
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No you do not need to replace the insulation, it needs to be fluffed back up a bit. On the left side it is compressed, just grab the outside and pull it a bit, at the most, reach inside, behind the visible face of insulation and fluff up behind it, or pull it out, reshape it to fill the cavity. There is no special magic there to insulation, it needs to fill the cavity, that's it.

In my opinion, since it is inside, the OSB does not need to be repaired. In most jurisdictions, only one wall covering is needed by code. If it is structural, as in wall bracing, since the whole wall is covered in OSB that hole will be of no concern. If you wish to fill it, you only need to add either a 3/4" or 1/1/2" (2X) scrap that laps halfway behind the right hand vertical edge and screw it in place with 1 1/4" screws, the kind you will need for the drywall too. If the left side is cut flush the framing add a 2X block to create an attachment point for the OSB, screw it in place with 2 1/2" screws. 2, maybe 3 screws will suffice for these attachments. If the repair guys did nice, they cut the piece out so it was salvageable, set it back in after all old fasteners are removed. Screw it in place with the 1 1/4" drywall screws. If it was not salvageable, cut a new piece to fit that is 1/4" smaller than the hole, 1/8" on each side, and screw that in place. All these dimensions are rough, no need to be exact, the main thing is to get it in flush, with not too large of gaps.

Remove all the old drywall fasteners, with pliers or claw hammer. Determine if the sheetrock is 1/2" or 5/8" thick. Cut you new material 1/4" smaller than the hole you are filing, and screw that in place with the 1 1/4" screws. Remove the wall plate and notch for that too. 5 or so screws across the top and bottom, and 4 down the ends and center will hold it in place. Apply the drywall joint compound, NOT spackle tape and smooth out to match existing finish, add a second coat after the tape coat dries. Do be aware you can press down on the taping knife fairly well to bed the tape in, keeping the knife clean of excess mud and the wall from a heavy build up at this time. Then when that dries, add the second coat if you choose too.

The drywall looks like it is only taped, not second coated. This is called "fire taping" when it is the only step done. Additional steps are "joint finishing"

  • Respectfully disagree with your statement, "If it is structural, as in wall bracing, since the whole wall is covered in OSB that hole will be of no concern." If, in fact that is a shear wall, then the hole would be of concern to a structural engineer. Maybe @leesam could weigh in here, as I can't claim to be expert enough to offer advice. – Aloysius Defenestrate Sep 19 '20 at 17:22
  • @AloysiusDefenestrate You make a good point, given the picture does not include the size of the whole wall. Yes Leesam would probable err on the side of caution and agree with you too. It should be no different than a door or a window in the wall. – Jack Sep 19 '20 at 18:43
  • Hi @Jack. Thank you for your detailed reply. I've added another picture of the full wall. Thanks in advance for the advice! – novablinkicelance Sep 19 '20 at 19:39

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