I have a ceiling fan/light that I am trying to convert to a smart switch. The light and fan are on separate switches in a 2 gang box with, what appears to be, 4 drops coming into the back. The primary picture is not the most recent, as the two red wires were, originally, wire-nutted together and this appears to be necessary for the rest of the lights on the circuit to work. I have also corrected the neutral connection. Line was identified by voltmeter (123v), and the light in this configuration does work. However, turning off the non-smart switch on the other side turns off the light, but then the smartswitch is no longer able to turn it back on. I am trying to replace the non-smart flip switch with the GE add-on switch, but I am not having any luck figuring out the right configuration. Secondary switch does not have a line, but is seeing 20v on, I believe, the black wire.
I've seen the video that discusses wrapping the line and travelers together to identify which is which, but that seems kinda dangerous to me, so I figured I would ask for help rather than keeping throwing darts at the board, first.
EDIT: Red and black from the far right drop do tone out to the remote switch. However, I wasn't able to confirm the white wire from either direction. I did run the probe around the light fixture, but wasn't able to hear anything that would indicate that's where it's wired to.
So, it sounds like I should re-wire the remote box using red & white as traveler/common, but where does white go and why is red attached to the rest of the circuit? White should still be neutral
My tone probe is really old, but red & black were pretty solid signal, so I am reasonably certain that remote side white is not directly connected to the 2-gang box. Is it coming back from the light? Is there a way to confirm the white is a neutral?
EDIT: Just in case it helps anyone else...
Based on Harper's advice, I disassembled both boxes again and confirmed that the far right (R) /3 was to the remote switch, the far left (L) /3 was to the light (carrying both fan and light switched hots) and tagged the wires with small nylon ties.
- Move the L red to the load on the smart switch
- Cap the black wire from R /3
- Move the red R /3 to the traveler on the smart switch
- White to neutral
- ground (obviously)
- Cap black
- red to traveler
Viola, everything works as expected now. My primary take away is your advice to, in the future, identify the wires by how they're wired to the switches BEFORE disconnecting anything. Thanks for the assist.