The drywall in our garage has holes, gashes, areas of moisture damage, etc.

If we replace it, in a number of years it will be back to the same state.

Can anyone recommend a material that will hold up better.... also, that could be removed for access to pipes and wires if necessary without damaging it?

Below are the requested pictures. The garage is on the ground floor. This is a converted barn. The left wall adjoins the basement, which is an office and storage.

Behind the back wall is house foundation. The right wall is stone foundation, which won't be affected.

I am looking for a material for the left wall. From what I have read above and elsewhere, drywall may be mandatory.

Garage from outside the house

Left wall

Back wall

Right wall (foundation of house)

  • Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. Unfortunately, any answer to this question will be a matter of opinion. Please take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here. – Daniel Griscom Sep 4 '20 at 17:56
  • Pictures? What's causing the damage? – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Sep 4 '20 at 18:11
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    Is one or more walls a fire wall between the garage and the house? Moisture damage will happen again in a matter of years? – Alaska Man Sep 4 '20 at 18:16
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    you need pictures. We also need to have some notes on what is behind each wall. – DMoore Sep 4 '20 at 18:55
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    Diamond plate... Very durable. You could also look into: FRP, NRP, or GRP panels. – Gunner Sep 5 '20 at 0:55

7/16" or 1/2" OSB is a common, fairly inexpensive garage liner in my part of the world. It's consistently flat, and you can opt to show the relatively unmarked rough side (rough to offer traction on roofs, usually has nailing guidelines) or the smooth side, which will have plenty of informational printing but looks better painted. It's nice because you can mount light- and medium-weight objects anywhere on it.

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I usually install with 2" gold screws (do yourself a favor and get star/Torx drive). This makes the job easy and is removable. I tend to show the less-marked rough side which looks nicer if unpainted and hides screw holes better from things I've mounted and removed. (I dislike pegboard and just put screws in the OSB as I need them.)

Caveat: Walls adjoining habitable space must have a rated firewall. You can probably go over any existing drywall, but don't remove it. This may mean extending electrical boxes, but that's not difficult.

Side note: If you paint, don't go white. It looks all spiffy and surgical and whatnot for a year or two, then it's dingy and gross. Use a little creativity and get a medium-toned color.

  • Isn't OSB tinder for a fire and very heavy. What about some moisture resistant drywall? Isn't there a new drywall which has fiberglass instead of paper. Put horizontal blocking in the wall where you want cabinets. – Jim Stewart Sep 4 '20 at 21:57
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    If you have enough fire to set existing OSB alight, you have bigger problems than your OSB being singed. OSB is about the same weight as drywall, so not that heavy. Moisture resistant drywall with fiberglass (DensShield, for instance) is still weak on the face like normal drywall and the additional water resistance over green/purple board isn't going to be valuable unless you have a leaky roof. – Aloysius Defenestrate Sep 5 '20 at 15:53
  • I don't want drywall anywhere near my woodworking and mechanical projects. Any bump results in a new dent or gouge. It's just not appropriate unless you're a groceries-only garage user. – isherwood Sep 8 '20 at 13:00

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