Hi I have a makita mitre saw ls1018l which is not powering up at all I have checked to make sure power is coming through The cable which it is, I’ve changed the bushes and I’ve changed the stator As it was recommended to me as a solution but this still didn’t work , i have tried to test the armature with a multimeter which showed no bakes in the wiring and no shorts I tested the resistance on all the parts I could test and they were all the same resistance. I don’t know what it could be can anyone help

There is a soft start on the back of the saw but I don’t know how to test it.

Thanks Alex

  • 2
    Have you checked for voltage at the load side of the on/off switch?
    – JACK
    Aug 26, 2020 at 12:21
  • I believe I have it’s a 110v saw so when I check the switch it does show 110v . The switch has 3 points and when it’s plugged in 2 of them are connected with continuity but the third just beeps a dull rapid sound Aug 26, 2020 at 13:44
  • continuity checkers are doggydoo. But why are you replacing motor parts when you haven't even verified the switches on the saw are passing voltage to the motor? <-- not just to the far side of the switch, but all the way there. Aug 26, 2020 at 14:25
  • Have you established that the shaft turns mechanically?
    – gnicko
    Aug 26, 2020 at 14:45

1 Answer 1


I agree with brush changes but after that the cord and switch should be checked especially something as advanced as a soft start. The output from the switch module needs to be verified. Portable equipment power cords are notorious for having a broken conductor right at the strain relief.

when the neutral breaks a meter or a non contact tester may show voltage but no return path So the saw won’t run (a low z meter won’t show a voltage). I get corded tools quite regularly cords, brushes, switch, are the main items that fail if the brushes look good not burnt or chipped the armature is usually fine. it is the cord or switch.

I recommend using the ohm meter for those not used to or trained to test with live voltage where you can the wide prong on the plug is the neutral in the us but put your meter on one of the prongs and find inside where the cord connects and test with the ohms function no reading try the other conductor, once you have a reading wiggle the cord around at the strain relief and plug. If your reading goes from a very low reading close to a short to a thousand or more ohms the cord is broken and needs to be replaced. Test both conductors if either one reads high time to the cord. An electronic switch is beyond our scope here but since you have changed everything else if the cord tests good that would be about all that is left to change.

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