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I have seen several posts about transition strips but not the answers I needed. I have two different heights but same flooring. Is there a way to build a wood transition strip that can be stained. Looking for ideas.

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  • Flooring is what? Laminate, vinyl plank, actual wood (seems unlikely) ? - picture is low-res so no zooming in to make a better guess... – Ecnerwal Aug 23 '20 at 0:19
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Yes, you can make a transition strip from wood. Without a more detailed picture and look into the area affected, it's hard to offer much more of an idea - cut wood to fit hole, mark floor level on each side, cut/plane/trim/rasp/beltsand to the marked line on each side, stain, fail to match the flooring color and either "not quite match" or go for "deliberately accentuate it since it won't match anyway." Not matching may reduce the tripping hazard (But I can't tell how much elevation difference from that picture, either)

Depending on the flooring material, you might be able to attach a chunk to a wood strip cut lower by the thickness of the floor for a better match.

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  • It’s actually vinyl plank flooring. I bought natural wood transition strips that I stained to match but they have a gap. Is it possible to put a solid piece under the transition strip on the lower side? – Tonkadog Aug 27 '20 at 1:23
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You will need a piece of the original flooring or the same kind of material, which looks like wood, and some of the original stain/finish. Cut the wood to the length needed with a miter box, hand or power. If transition ends butt to door stop and jamb, cut the ends to match with a coping or jig saw. Rip the piece to the thickness needed, the difference between the two elevations. Bevel the piece by ripping with table saw or planing by hand or power in vise. Perhaps 3/8" (10mm) vertical flat left as thickness at thin edge unless you are confident of gluing a full taper to the original floor below with a urethane or epoxy wood adhesive and the same as horizontal flat at the higher floor edge. Stain and finish top and edges to match original. Drill countersink pilots for minimum (3) wood screws, preferably aligned with framing below if it can be located by existing floor fasteners. Apply gorilla glue or other expanding glue or epoxy to bottom of transition strip. Install screws. Quantity, spacing and length of screws depends upon the presence of framing and/or sub-flooring below existing flooring. Screwed to flooring only will likely move. Star-drive screws recommended. Allow glue to cure before walking. If concealed screws are desired, use plug bit instead of countersink bit for the screws, install wood plugs matching bit size and sand flush, and apply stain/finish after installation.

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  • Wow so I’m having serious tool envy! That’s a compliment. Is there a way to do it with more basic tools? – Tonkadog Aug 27 '20 at 1:21
  • By gap in your post below do you mean the strip is lower than it should be on the high side or there is a horizontal gap? By code, you can have 1/2" height differential between floors at a doorway. If your strip is too low at the higher side wouldn't adding a spacer under the transition just make for a taller vertical at the lower side. If a horizontal gap it's OK to caulk if color is close. If woodworking tools aren't available I would look for a bronze transition strip to just screw down. They exist for any height differential if you look. Tool envy, been at it since 1958. Do your best. – Steven Monrad Aug 28 '20 at 4:34
  • That makes sense - I just need something under the lower one so it supports the transition strip – Tonkadog Aug 29 '20 at 1:22

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