1

It looks a bit like a female spade connector, but it has a couple of "tails" at the back of the curled part that lock it into the ceramic block, and a ramp at the front that guides the burner's contacts into place.

enter image description here

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The metal of the connector on the right has gotten charred and has disintegrated where the burner contacts it.

Can I just find a replacement connector, or do I need to get an entire receptacle replacement kit?

2

You will probably have to replace the entire receptacle. Thats a special spade connector and you don't want to jury rig the contacts. The last I replaced one similar to this, it came with the wires already crimped to the connectors so all I had to do was connect the wires to the switches.

6
  • I definitely don't want to jury rig anything. If I can find identical connectors, I thought it might be a fairly simple fix. But I don't know what to search for since I don't know what they're called. – adatum Aug 13 '20 at 2:02
  • 1
    You have to be careful because there are connectors very similar tha won't stand up to the heat. If you have a model number of the range, you can look for parts online at appliance parts sites. – JACK Aug 13 '20 at 12:29
  • I'm not seeing the connectors available anywhere. I found the parts list for this model range (Whirlpool YRF263LXTQ0) and there is only a part for the entire wiring harness and all 4 receptacles (WPW10295595). There are many receptacle replacement kits for WP330031 like amazon.ca/Whirlpool-330031-Top-Burner-Receptacle/dp/B00DM8J2HE which I don't know if is advisable for my model. It would involve cutting the existing harness and using the wire nuts to join to the new kit. Not sure if that's what the kit is meant for or if it's a direct replacement for some other models' part. – adatum Aug 14 '20 at 3:08
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    That amazon part is just like the one I replaced. Cutting the wires and wire nutting in the new connector. the burner are pretty standard. You can always stop by an appliance repair shop and they'll probably have a match. – JACK Aug 14 '20 at 12:41
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    @adatum That would be fine. Just squeeze the other one a bit with some pliers to make sure it fits tight since it's been removed and might be a little loose. Using the old ceramic will be fine too, as it will fit into your bracket without adjustments. – JACK Aug 19 '20 at 20:00
-1

I believe they are called 1/4” tab connectors.

These have a folded tab under with a small hole. I suppose you could unfold it to 90 deg. Or shape as required.

I doubt the plastic crimp sleeve can withstand the heat, so keep looking for :

PIGGY BACK FASTON UNINSULATED TERMINAL RECEPTACLES

and you have have luck getting the same crimp receptacle.

Called :

    TE Internal #: 9-160463-2
    TE Internal Description: PIDG PIGGYB.FAST.
    Alias #:915344-000 AMPS-9-0160463-2
    All PIDG PIGGY BACK FASTON TERMINAL (2)

Before you select your replacement, make sure it is better than the ones being replaced that failed from thermal conduction in the mechanical mount.

Look here

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  • I should have taken measurements while I had it undone... But the item in the link looks nothing like it. Aside from the long "lip", it is also missing the critical tails for locking into the ceramic receptacle. – adatum Aug 13 '20 at 2:42
  • Yes the photo is hard to visualize the details of what’s missing from one view. But there are a lot similarities. The 1/4” TAB name not spade lug and the piggy back thermal insulation. – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Aug 13 '20 at 2:45
  • Yes, perhaps it's difficult to see. If you click on my pictures for a larger view, it will be easier to see the tails on the end of the curled parts of the terminals, pointing towards the wire. This is what keeps the connector in the receptacle and prevents it from popping out when the element is inserted. – adatum Aug 13 '20 at 2:53
  • Good luck finding what it is . Thats the best I could from your photos – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Aug 13 '20 at 2:54

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