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Could I get some help identifying this blown (and very smelly) capacitor from a ceiling fan, and maybe suggest where replacements may be found?

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I'm not sure how to read the label. Also there is no wiring diagram for the 3 wires, although two different capacitances are listed.

  • AC300/260V. What are the two voltages, and is it necessary to match exactly for a 120V AC circuit?

  • 1.5 / 3 uF J. How can I find out which wire is for 1.5 uF and which is for 3 uF, short of measuring. What is the J at the end?

  • TV525/455. No clue what any of this means. Is it relevant?

  • What is CJ 2WS?

  • What is the purpose of this capacitor? Is it really necessary for operation? When capacitors fail do they fail open or shorted? – Jim Stewart Aug 13 at 1:27
  • @JimStewart -- it's a motor run cap, and it could go either way – ThreePhaseEel Aug 13 at 1:29
  • @ThreePhaseEel , my old, heavy Hunter 2-speed oil bath fans have been in service for 40 years and never been serviced. Do these not have capacitors? The capacitors in my a/c condensing unit have been replaced multiple times but in my air handler never AFIK. Why the difference? – Jim Stewart Aug 13 at 1:42
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    @JimStewart I don't have a circuit diagram or know the specific purpose, but from searching online it seems fans have a "start" capacitor which helps build torque when the fan is turned on, and when this capacitor dies (apparently a common problem), the fan will make a humming/buzzing sound and fail to turn, turn very slowly, or switch directions on its own. That describes the issues with this fan. – adatum Aug 13 at 1:50
  • It is a run cap the op said it changes directions when blown so if 3 speed 1.5 , 3 and both in parallel 4.5 UF will provide the 3 speeds. When caps are bulged quite common with electrolytic caps they shorted and blew up basically. Oil filled rarely blow last forever but cost many times more and are larger. I hope that helps @jim Stewart – Ed Beal Aug 13 at 7:21
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It is a 1.5/3 microfared cap 260v eBay has them for 8.99$ Amazon 6.95 the one that I looked at was 250v but that will be fine on a 120v circuit. You need to make sure you connect them correctly as 1 lead is common 1 is 1.5 UF the other is 3 UF.
The positions will be the same , the other numbers are MFG lot numbers etc.

Note I just searched “ capacitor 1.5/3”

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  • Considering the capacitor is blown, how can I find out which is 1 uF and which is 3 uF? Thanks, I had already seen the ebay and amazon listings for 3 wire 1.5/3 uF capacitors. I'll see if they can be found locally, otherwise those are the only options I've found. – adatum Aug 13 at 14:59
  • The physical location on the devices is usually the same, if you have a capacitor checker on a volt meter check one may be good the single wire is or has been the common on every one I have replaced. But changing wire for wire should get you there ie common on left cut the front right out and connect your new front right then the rear. – Ed Beal Aug 13 at 15:07
  • In the worst case, yes, I'll just use the same physical wire locations and hope for no magic smoke. My multimeter can measure capacitance, but I don't know how to figure out the existing configuration with the dead capacitor. – adatum Aug 13 at 15:37
  • Come on I just told you the single wire is the common the 2 wires on the other end are 1.5 & 3 UF leads Mark them so you will know front and back. – Ed Beal Aug 13 at 16:46
  • amazon.com/HQRP-Capacitor-Hampton-Ceiling-Coaster/dp/B01N6O1EBW This capacitor and the positional wire matching worked, with the 1.5uF purple/left wire joined to the fan's black wire going to the switch, the 3uF yellow/right wire to the blue wire also to the switch, and the single grey wire to the other black wire going to the 6-pin wire harness. No magic smoke, and the fan is working again. Thanks! – adatum Sep 4 at 4:11

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