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Heads up, I’m one of those dreaded DIY-ers :)

I am currently replacing drywall, no tiling, in my full bathroom as previous owners did not have any type of ventilation and very soon after purchase we noticed beginning indications of mold.

I’m noticing on the back wall of the shower enclosure that is installed, the studs are causing the drywall to overhang the enclosure as opposed to being flush with the flange.

The picture shows what I’m looking at. The initial build looks like the installers cut out a section of the studs halfway up but that is only causing more confusion.

Any ideas how I’m supposed to install this back wall?

Thanks in advance!

enter image description hereHello all,

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  • I don’t cut them that far up it may have been a different setup in the past. Note you don’t want your Sheetrock to be in contact with the ledge this will lead to it wicking water causing rot and falling apart all at the same time. (Yes even with water resistant, green or blue or pink) I would add a horizontal furring strip guessing all the studs are cut back. – Ed Beal Jul 31 '20 at 17:40
  • Hi Ed - thanks for your reply! Got it, mistake in cutting that far right Sheetrock all the way down to the ledge, luckily that’s easily fixable at this stage. In regards to the addition of a fur strip; I see how that will help with attaching the Sheetrock to the stud however, I would still have that overhang, yes? The way I’m seeing it, the drywall would still hang, although it wouldn’t be in contact with the ledge anymore, into the shower enclosure. With the ~1 inch gap left between the flange and the Sheetrock, I’m not seeing how I can mud/tape/bead to finish the wall. Thanks again! -J – johnw93 Jul 31 '20 at 18:15
  • it doesn’t need to be a 1” gap Sheetrock to the ledge just a small one so water sitting on the ledge can’t wick up I usually leave at least 1/4”. I would add a horizontal strip thick enough to support the Sheetrock just above the the ledge maybe a 1/2” a 1x4 may fit across there it looks just under an inch but that will give support the entire length compared to trying to shim each stud the horizontal strip is still a nailer or screws and will be plenty strong if the wall gets pushed on in that area. – Ed Beal Jul 31 '20 at 18:50
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    "I am currently replacing drywall, no tiling" What is the tub surround going to be? Why were the studs hacked like that ? – Alaska Man Jul 31 '20 at 19:26
  • What does the other end of the tub look like are the studs also cut out? It looks like the tub is too big for the space and there will net be any way to install a surround that doesnt overhang the lip of the tub. You either need a smaller tub or to reframe – redlude97 Dec 30 '20 at 8:44
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This is pretty easy.

#1 - you don't use drywall on a tub surround (and if you do you put backer board over it).

#2 - You don't know what the overhang is until you run new board behind the tub since you can't attach to something cut like that.

#3 - You do want an overhang. There really isn't a "limit" on it although it cannot be so much that it overhangs to actual tub. Yes it is too much right now but when you install a board that is flat you probably will be fine.

#4 - You have nothing to attach your pieces in the corner.

#5 - You already installed drywall that needs to be taken.

No offense - you are basically doing everything wrong right now. Clear your head as you haven't made a lot of progress and you get a "do-over". But you need to take down what you have put up, work out the studs (different question), and then learn how to install a shower.

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  • I agree, the studs need to be mended otherwise the there is no way to get the wall covering to sit over the tub lip in the correct place. – Alaska Man Jul 31 '20 at 19:25
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    @AlaskaMan - well it is on the studs. Meaning the drywall should barely have a gap which would be fine with that tub. This is a mess. Replacing moldy drywall... put up new drywall? – DMoore Jul 31 '20 at 19:31

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