Must we install a "moisture, not vapor" barrier, room-side, on an insulated above-grade portion of an exterior basement wall
Can we forgo installing any " moisture, not vapor, " barrier on the INSIDE of our above grade portion of an exterior basement 6" wall that has been filled with fiberglass insulation (with no kraft paper)? If not, what do we use, the only "moisture, not vapor" barrier we've heard of is Tyvek; however, when we contacted Tyvek their Tech said "Tyvek is not for interior use"
The house is located in the forests of central western MA near the CT Border ( 01034 ). The walk out basement dimensions are 24x26. We have no knowledge about what moisture barrier may have been placed on the outside of the exterior walls in 1986/7 when the house was built.
We are considering closing up the wall using neither any moisture, nor "moisture not vapor", barrier. Would this be an okay approach, to close up the wall with no barrier other than the paneling (or sheet rock), leaving the fiberglass insulated wall, otherwise, unlined, unenclosed and unrestricted (air born particles) ?
The exterior stud wall rises to approximately six feet above the top of the 27" high concrete foundation wall and has seven windows, including the door's window panel, and 12 electrical outlets. A few years back the basement had a mold bloom (green) and all the exterior wall sheet rock and the previous fiberglass insulation with Kraft paper, were removed; and the basement was professionally cleaned. The floor was and still is bare (another problem, perennial dust). Since then we installed a powerful Sante Fe Classic dehumidifier and new fiberglass insulation (with no kraft paper). We are now ready to close up and finish up with, the room side of the exterior stud wall. We are considering installing pine T&G paneling on the stud section of the wall and we really need to decide what if anything to put between the insulation filled studs and the finish wall product, ie the paneling.
More on the matter . . . we also installed a mini-split and most recently a PH neutralizer tank was installed. This tank is uninsulated and sweats like crazy (but not onto the floor?) even with the dehumidifier running. Nothing else, that we can visually see, is sweating; however, this new tank's sweating is reminiscent of the sweat we used to see on the lally columns prior to the installation of the dehumidifier. This reminds us that the condensation threat is ever present at least in Summer. We are considering installing an insulation blanket on the tank.
Lastly, we have, on more than one occasion, been told by professionals that the basement is "dry" however, the concrete moisture level on the floor and the walls at the corners etc registers as high as even 90%, after a rain.
Okay, we've posted a lot of comments and questions. If you only get to answer one, please respond to the question of how to address the closing of the upper six feet of the inside of the exterior wall.
Please advise, as we would greatly appreciate any consideration you may give this matter.