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I am trying to make a DIY disinfection box, and have acquired most of the parts for it. However, my knowledge of wiring is very rudimentary and the lamp specs are not very descriptive. Thus, I wanted to double-check how the wiring should be because I'm worried I'll blow out the lamp.

Here are the components that I'm using:

Sylvania 21062 - GCF9DS/G23/SE/OF Lamp

Leviton 26719-200 G23, G23-2 Base, 5W 7W 9W 2-Pin

ROBERTSON 3P10068 Fluorescent mBallast for 1 F8T5 Linear Lamp, Preheat Start, 120Vac, 60Hz

BCQLI Lamp Cord has Button Switch,Plug,Stripped Ends

According to my research, a 2-pin can only use a magnetic ballast, but I am confused about the "starter" part. The spec sheet linked for the lamp states that a starter is required, but I am unsure if the starter is built into the lamp or if I'm somehow supposed to wire a starter like the ones used in a tube light fixture into such a circuit.

Wiring Diagram for 2-pin vs tube light

I am concerned regarding the existence of a starter integrated within the lamp due to another post on the electrical engineering StackExchange. Someone was attempting to wire 9W bi-pin UV-C tubes and the comment at the end of the thread stated those particular tubes did not have a starter. The post can be found here, although the link to the tubes being referenced is unfortunately broken.

Therefore, is figure 101 fine for wiring? Or would I have to buy a starter? If so what kind? Also, in the case a starter is needed, any advice on how to wire a starter for a 2-pin plug-in would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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    Is that wiring diagram actually out of that ballast's instructions? Is that particular lamp on the ballast's list of supported lamps? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 20 at 0:32
  • Very well written first post, well done! Once you've answered Harper's questions in another comment, take the tour while waiting for an answer (or two) to learn how to make the most of the site. – FreeMan Jul 20 at 0:54
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica yes, this wiring diagram is a screenshot from the spec sheet found on the Amazon page for the ballast linked in my post. This lamp is NOT on the ballast's list of supported lamps, the list of supported lamps is (CFQ9W/G23 CFT5W/G23 CFT7W/G23 CFT9W/G23 F6T5 F8T5). Of this list, the CFT9W/G23 is also a 2-pin 9W G23 base lamp. The ballast is a preheat with 120V 60Hz 0.18A, and my lamp spec sheet says 0.17A with a preheat ballast. – Ishan Kulkarni Jul 20 at 14:39
  • @FreeMan thank you very much, I will do so! – Ishan Kulkarni Jul 20 at 14:45
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When you see multiple wiring diagrams in a ballast's instructions, it means there will be a table of supported lamps, which will indicate which diagram applies to that particular lamp.

This lamp is NOT on the ballast's list of supported lamps

Well then, that’s that.

You either need to use a lamp that is on the ballast’s list of supported lamps, or use a ballast which lists your lamp. I suspect you’ll want to do the latter since your goal is a UV light.

We’ve been getting a lot of these questions since early March, one guess why... and the fact is that while the UV lights share the same sockets as fluorescent illumination lights, they have very different electrical characteristics and require diffferent ballasts. (This isn’t anything new; T8 and T12 lights share the same base, and require different ballasts).

You can’t just hork together mismatched sets, or at least, you’ll get failing or compromised performance if you do. And unless you’re an elf or halfling, you probably can’t see UV-C, so how would you even know it was working? Using reputable matched parts and observing on-spec current draw is your best bet.

Speaking of “reputable”, you’ve done an amazing job dodging the sea of dangerous, cheap Cheese junk that Amazon is awash with thanks to the dubious Amazon “Marketplace”. However, they nailed you on that line cord. For a line cord, simply buy any UL Listed extension or line cord at any local shop or from your cord drawer (my favorite is that surplus of PC cords we all have)... and lop the socket end off.

Given that this is a homebrew rig, you should put serious thought to grounding; your future ballast’s spec may even require it.

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  • "cheap Cheese junk that Amazon is awash with" Ed, is that you? ;) – FreeMan Jul 20 at 15:58
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica Ahh ok, I see. Thank you very much for letting me know. This lamp seems to have been discontinued so it was difficult/impossible to find a ballast that specifically stated having compatibility with this lamp so I took a chance on this ballast. I'll likely try this specific build for scientific purposes only, as I have access to a UVC meter to see the performance. Thank you for the kind words and ahh I KNEW I shouldn't have skimped on the outlet wire. I thought it'd be nifty to have an ON-OFF switch :). I'll use a spare PC cord and look into grounding. Thank you so much! – Ishan Kulkarni Jul 21 at 16:26
  • Lamps run by types/sizes, so it’s not a question of that particular manufacturere’s model of lamp, but rather, the type/size it is. A ballast which supports that lamp will support the equivalent lamp from any mfgr. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 21 at 17:56

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