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I just got a new GFCI outlet to replace a non-GFI one in my kitchen. It is a Leviton, product number is GFTR1-KW. For the life of me I don’t know why it’s not working. This same question has been asked before and an answer was never provided. Here is the link to that one-

New GFCI outlet; green light is on but no power

I connected the line and load wires properly, there is a solid green light on which according to the instructions indicates it is wired properly, but there is no power coming out of it or the outlets downstream. I reinstalled the old one to make sure the wires were ok and it works. I pushed the test and reset buttons a ton and nothing happens, the light just stays on. Is it just these dumb Leviton GFIs that have this problem? The wires are pretty cramped in the box, could the ground wires be too close to the other wires? I have no idea. Help!

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    There are really only two possibilities--that you don't actually have it wired correctly or that you have a bad unit. Can you post clear photos of the situation? – isherwood Jul 9 at 16:02
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    Welcome to Home Improvement. After editing to add a clear, sharp, focused picture or two of how you've got the new guy wired, take a few moments to take the tour and browse the help center to learn how to make the most of this site and to kill time while waiting on an answer (or two). – FreeMan Jul 9 at 16:05
  • Why were you hooking up LOAD in the first place? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 9 at 20:20
  • I was just following the directions on the sheet that came with it. It said to hook up line and load, turn the power on, and then reset it. – Nick Jul 9 at 22:01
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I connected the line and load wires properly

Actually, you probably didn't. Not definitely - it could be a bad GFCI - but most likely the wiring is not 100% correct.

  • Turn off power.
  • Disconnect everything.
  • Connect only the Line wires - hot and neutral - and the ground wire.
  • Turn on power.
  • See if the GFCI receptacles work.
  • See if the GFCI test and reset buttons work.

Assuming all of that works, then connect the Load wires - hot and neutral - and see what happens. If at that point things stop working, then the problem is downstream - i.e., in the receptacles or devices connected via Load.

Keep in mind that with a non-GFCI receptacle, line and load are all the same. With a GFCI, you have to keep them separate and connect them properly or strange things happen.

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    Ok I tried that and figured it out! So the instructions say if the green light is on it means it’s wired correctly, but that’s actually not true. I just connected to the line side like you said and it was the same at first, then I changed the wires and no light was on, and then I pushed the reset button and it clicked on. So I had the line and load reversed. For anyone else who has this problem- if the green light comes on by itself without you pushing the reset button, that means the wires are reversed. The light shouldn’t come on until you reset it. Thanks for your help. – Nick Jul 9 at 17:31
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    Nick you should write your comment up as an answer and accept it . I guess I have never wired one wrong , I have only seen the green light after pressing the test reset buttons. – Ed Beal Jul 9 at 17:43
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    The green light does not mean wires reversed. It means "detected current in certain wires in a non-trip-the-GFCI way", which can be a few different situations. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Jul 9 at 17:49
  • Oh ok gotcha, thanks. – Nick Jul 10 at 18:48

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