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I just got a new GFCI outlet to replace a non-GFI one in my kitchen. It is a Leviton, product number is GFTR1-KW. For the life of me I don’t know why it’s not working. This same question has been asked before and an answer was never provided. Here is the link to that one-

New GFCI outlet; green light is on but no power

I connected the line and load wires properly, there is a solid green light on which according to the instructions indicates it is wired properly, but there is no power coming out of it or the outlets downstream. I reinstalled the old one to make sure the wires were ok and it works. I pushed the test and reset buttons a ton and nothing happens, the light just stays on. Is it just these dumb Leviton GFIs that have this problem? The wires are pretty cramped in the box, could the ground wires be too close to the other wires? I have no idea. Help!

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    There are really only two possibilities--that you don't actually have it wired correctly or that you have a bad unit. Can you post clear photos of the situation?
    – isherwood
    Jul 9, 2020 at 16:02
  • Why were you hooking up LOAD in the first place? Jul 9, 2020 at 20:20
  • I was just following the directions on the sheet that came with it. It said to hook up line and load, turn the power on, and then reset it.
    – Nick
    Jul 9, 2020 at 22:01

4 Answers 4

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I connected the line and load wires properly

Actually, you probably didn't. Not definitely - it could be a bad GFCI - but most likely the wiring is not 100% correct.

  • Turn off power.
  • Disconnect everything.
  • Connect only the Line wires - hot and neutral - and the ground wire.
  • Turn on power.
  • See if the GFCI receptacles work.
  • See if the GFCI test and reset buttons work.

Assuming all of that works, then connect the Load wires - hot and neutral - and see what happens. If at that point things stop working, then the problem is downstream - i.e., in the receptacles or devices connected via Load.

Keep in mind that with a non-GFCI receptacle, line and load are all the same. With a GFCI, you have to keep them separate and connect them properly or strange things happen.

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    Ok I tried that and figured it out! So the instructions say if the green light is on it means it’s wired correctly, but that’s actually not true. I just connected to the line side like you said and it was the same at first, then I changed the wires and no light was on, and then I pushed the reset button and it clicked on. So I had the line and load reversed. For anyone else who has this problem- if the green light comes on by itself without you pushing the reset button, that means the wires are reversed. The light shouldn’t come on until you reset it. Thanks for your help.
    – Nick
    Jul 9, 2020 at 17:31
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    Nick you should write your comment up as an answer and accept it . I guess I have never wired one wrong , I have only seen the green light after pressing the test reset buttons.
    – Ed Beal
    Jul 9, 2020 at 17:43
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    The green light does not mean wires reversed. It means "detected current in certain wires in a non-trip-the-GFCI way", which can be a few different situations. Jul 9, 2020 at 17:49
  • Oh ok gotcha, thanks.
    – Nick
    Jul 10, 2020 at 18:48
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    Newer Leviton GFCI outlets are shipped from the factory in tripped condition, so you have to press reset after they are properly installed to have the green indicator light turn on and the receptacles work.
    – Armand
    Jul 1, 2022 at 23:40
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Not all GFCI outlets are made the same. Some have “Line” on the top, some have “Load” on the top. Check it. Don’t make the same mistake I did assuming you can simply pull an outlet and replace the new one the exact same way.

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    Most (all?) of them come with a sticker across the Load screws so you have to physically remove it before you can connect something to the load side.
    – FreeMan
    Sep 11, 2021 at 19:53
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And so, in summary as I just experienced this exact problem with a Leviton 20 Amp GFCI Outlet that was the primary outlet and protected 3 other downstream outlets.

If you follow the Leviton directions and have 4 or 6 wires coming into the box (NOT counting any grounding bare copper wires) you MUST make sure the LINE and LOAD wiring is connected to the right terminals.

IF after you wire this outlet and the solid green light comes on but there is no power to the GVCI outlets nor is there power to the connected downstream outlets, nor with the reset/trip buttons work, YOU HAVE NOT CONNECTED THE LINE WIRES TO THE LINE TERMINALS AND THE LOAD WIRES TO THE LOAD TERMINALS. The solid green light merely means the outlet has detected power somewhere in it's circuits. RED or FLASHING RED light indicates a further wire connection problem.

To correct the situation above, after plugging a lamp or light into the GFCI (in tripped position) turn the appropriate breakers off at the circuit box, then reconfirm you know which are the LINE Input Wires and connect those to the appropriate LINE terminals. Make sure copper ground is connected. THEN (keeping any other wires separated) turn the circuit back on at the circuit box. You should see the solid green light and when you reset the tripped button by pushing the black button in, your plugged in light should go on.) Turn circuit off again at circuit box; reconnect the LOAD wires reinstalling the outlet and cover plate in the wall. Turn circuit on again and you should get the green light, power to the GFCI outlets AND power to any downstream outlets that get their power and are protected by the GFCI outlet.

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Same thing as above happened to me. Installed it and green light was on but test button wouldn't press in. Changed the load and line and that allowed the test and reset button to work.

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