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I am working through the layout of the framing for my basement and would appreciate some help identifying the rough-ins. I do not plan on putting a shower in the basement, only a powder room as my grandma used to call it. What are some of the better options for cutting and capping the shower drain once identified so that I can finish the floor. I was considering just busting up the concrete around it, cutting and capping it below grade and then pouring fresh concrete on it but that is just my gut instinct on how to solve this particular problem.

The pipe on the far left of the image is ~14.5" from the wall. I am framing with 2x6 and am already contending with a 12" intrusion into the room against the same wall from a radon mitigation system exhaust so if the far left is for the sink, I will just bring the framing out another couple of inches and have it come through the center of the studs.

Note: The temporary wall in the picture is not part of the framing for the basement, it has been torn out, was there during the picture only

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  • Can you zoom out... and are there any pipes on the wall? – DMoore Jul 8 '20 at 16:51
  • Why are you framing with 2x6? Even here in frigid Minnesota we never use more than 2x4 for basement energy walls. – isherwood Jul 8 '20 at 19:57
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    @isherwood not related to insulation. As I was unwinding a portion of my woodshop to frame in the basement for my son, I fell into some heavily discounted (read: nearly free) 2x6x10 lumber to the point that it didn't make sense to go 2x4. I was originally going to frame in metal studs. – James Legan Jul 8 '20 at 23:40
  • @DMoore No, no more pipes, just the 3. – James Legan Jul 8 '20 at 23:40
  • Understood. Consider ripping the 2x6 boards in half if you could use more studs than you have. They'll still be robust enough for an 8' energy wall. – isherwood Jul 9 '20 at 12:50
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+100

The one on the left appears to be a for a vanity sink. Though sinks usually connect to 1-1/2" pipe, anything below slab level is usually upsized to 2" for clog avoidance and easier cleaning. You'd reduce it above floor level. It's positioned to be either in the wall or in the cabinet.

The center is the toilet. 4" stubs are often used so that you can install an inside (hub) flange, reducing the inlet to a standard 3" toilet connection. You'd cut it off and install a cement-in flange over your flooring. It's positioned to be centered 12" off your finished wall surface.

The right one is for a shower. They're typically left with a box around them so you can fine-tune position for the pan or tub you select by adding a trap assembly. The pail is simply a concrete form/barrier.

If you're going to eliminate the shower, just cut the stub below floor level, cap it, and fill in the boxed area with concrete. There's nothing to bust up.

Disclaimer: Plumbing is like a box of chocolates. You never know.... The pipe on the left could be a vent for the toilet. I'd run some water in each, with them all opened up, and see what you see (or hear).

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  • Good point about the bucket. His comment on radon misled me. Strange about the smaller one on the left, a vanity drain out in the field near the toilet. – Alaska Man Jul 8 '20 at 19:58
  • Yeah, I'm not entirely sure what the intended layout was. Some context about the rest of the basement would help. – isherwood Jul 8 '20 at 20:07
  • @AlaskaMan Sorry, radon mitigation system is a 3in hole I had drilled into the slab and manometer / fan setup which exhausts out to the roofline. I only brought it out because if the 1.5" pipe on the left is for a drain (my belief) then due to having to account for radon mitigation, my wall would come straight through it which would work out well, allowing the drain to be in the wall w/o requiring a vanity (pedestal preferred) and not losing any floor space. – James Legan Jul 8 '20 at 23:51
  • @isherwood I called the builder to see if they had any plans for the basement (they did not), they just told the plumber to rough it in as it was intended to be a model. You are correct regarding the bucket, it is simply there to create space around that drain when the basement floor was poured. Regarding the pipe sizing, the far left and far right (bucket) are 2", the middle is 4". – James Legan Jul 8 '20 at 23:58
  • @isherwood thanks, I will accept this as the answer but was curious on the vent. Since it is tied into the rest of the plumbing, is the venting being handled elsewhere? I can wire a house blindfolded but admitted have stayed away from plumbing most of my life. – James Legan Jul 9 '20 at 17:50
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help identifying basement rough-ins

I would surmise that the smaller pipe on the left is a drain for a fixture such as a bathtub or shower stall or maybe a sink. (Is or was there any venting in the wall you removed or elsewhere in the basement?)

The larger pipe in the center of the photo with the yellow cap appears to be sized for a toilet.

The larger one on the right With the bucket around it appears to be part of the radon mitigation system.

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