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I went to shut off my hose and this happened. (Fortunately, the water got shut off.) To what degree is this spigot busted and what is the general course of action now?

enter image description here

Edit following comments. After unscrewing the flange, all I was able to do was to pull it out slightly (see below). So I wasn't able to look inside. To add, the wall on the inside of the house is finished. To compound the challenge, there does not appear to be a shut off valve.

enter image description here

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    Oh my, you are in for a bit of work... Is your house on a slab, basement, or crawl space? I don't know that I've got a recommendation for any of those situations beyond tearing into the inside wall for access and possibly installing an access panel and shutoff valve, but that will be good info for others to chew on.
    – FreeMan
    Jun 24, 2020 at 14:24
  • This hose bib is on the third level from the ground on a deck.
    – Wynne
    Jun 24, 2020 at 19:29
  • It's possible that the line for this leads to the nearest "wet wall" i.e. where other water is. Is there a bathroom nearby? The shutoff may be there, even if it's one floor down.
    – FreeMan
    Jun 25, 2020 at 10:39

2 Answers 2

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From this image: enter image description here

...it looks like maybe the Bibb washer has come off the end. Is there a threaded hole on the shaft? Or is the end broken? In which case you'll probably be replacing the whole thing.

Edit: Image source: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/plumbing-piping/1386d1340667135-freeze-proof-spigot-soldered-threaded-connection-36947d1312808313-help-stopping-hydrant-squirting-water-out-top-2005-9-12_frost_proof_sillcock_w5.jpg

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  • Which means that I should unscrew the flange and twist the whole thing out?
    – Wynne
    Jun 24, 2020 at 5:33
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    @Wynne After removing the two screws from the mounting flange visible from the outside, you'll need to look inside the house to see where the sillcock is attached. You will likely be able to unscrew it from there, though you might need a wrench to hold the flats of a fitting and a pipe wrench to hold onto a pipe that doesn't have a fitting. If you're lucky, there will be a threaded fitting on the end of the pipe and it will have flats for one wrench and there will be flats on the sillcock for a 2nd wrench. Edit your OP with pics of the joint if you're not sure.
    – FreeMan
    Jun 24, 2020 at 12:32
  • Steve, please post the source of your image. That's common courtesy and expected at SE sites.
    – FreeMan
    Jun 24, 2020 at 14:25
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    If the OP is lucky, the sillcock was threaded onto the mating pipe. It may have been soldered on, as those fittings can accommodate either method.
    – SteveSh
    Jun 24, 2020 at 14:26
  • Is there a threaded hole on the shaft? Or is the end broken? Jun 25, 2020 at 4:33
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Since the water shut off your valve must have the "valve closing" threads near the valve sealing point deep inside the valve, not out near the packing nut you've removed. The stem broke off from the "head" of the valve with the threads and seal.

In theory if you could get the water shut off upstream (might mean the main shutoff, evidently, and you'll have to do that for ANY repair option) and get the valve head out (difficult, as it's deep inside with a broken stem) and find a replacement complete valve stem assembly for this exact sillcock, you could just replace the valve stem assembly.

In practice, that might be well-nigh impossible at several points, and ripping the finished wall open to access the inner end of this assembly so you can replace the whole thing is much more of a sure bet for solving the problem.

If most of the pipes you can see are soldered, you will almost certainly need to unsolder this to replace it. If you have threaded pipes for your plumbing you may be able to "just unscrew it" or it may be firmly stuck and require opening the inside wall to apply a wrench to the joint. Trying to unscrew it from the outside may twist and collapse the outer tube, which appears to be copper. A brass one is commonly less likely to collapse. Trying to "unscrew" a joint which is actually soldered will almost always twist and collapse the tube/pipe.

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