I am trying to build a 'barrier' wireless dog fence. I could simply run the wire around my whole yard and be done, but much of it is already fenced in and I do not want to restrict access to that fenced in area (Dog likes to meet dogs on other side of the fence.. running the wire would prevent the dog from doing so).

with my yard, I have to cross a driveway and on the outer edge of the driveway, there isn't enough space to loop the wire back (if I need ~6ft space when looping.. I only have about 3-4 ft).

I want to start at the first port, loop down around the front yard, cross the driveway and up the side of the yard to where the Chain link fence begins. What I want to do there is to splice the wire into two (2) pieces of wire (so 3 way splice). Those 2 wires would then be twisted back close the second port, where I would splice the two back into a single wire. This is still a continuous loop isn't it? Why won't this work? (Will this diminish the wire signal? Do the wires have to be opposite traveling when twisted to effectively cancel the wire signal? See attached diagram for a visual. Any suggestions to accomplish that cancelation across the back part of the house?

Diagram of yard and wireless fence design


2 Answers 2


I have had several wireless fences with one being several acres where I had gates I did splice and twist the wires to make the null signal area , adding the gate areas for horses I did need to turn up the power but it still worked fine with several changes including where the brush hog cut the fence in an area it was not buried even with splices at those points and new sections added of twisted wire the fence still worked well. Where I spliced the fence I used butt splices and filled them with silicone sealer so the splice would be dry and not corrode when crimped some of the sealer is squeezed out but this makes a really well sealed splice for low voltage I also do this on my boat and the connections last.


This method will give the dog full access to the whole yard

Run the wire all the way around the back yard along the top of the fence and stone wall. When you get back to the "start" point on the right, you twist it with the wire leading away from the house.

With the proper "width" setting, this will allow the dog to get to the bottom of the fence for a meet & greet, but will prevent him from jumping the fence. He'll also have free reign all the way around the house and won't have to do the "back and forth" around the structure to avoid the one wire run through the middle of the yard (on the "east" side of the drawing).

We have a nice wooden fence in our back yard to contain the dog, but she's terrified of the rain and will jump the fence if it's raining when we're not home. We put the collar on her when we leave and the wire at the top of the fence prevents her from jumping, but gives her full access to run her fence line (as is evidenced by the dead grass at the bottom of the fence from her constant circling).

This method will give the dog a front yard and a back yard

Alternatively, continue the wire run "north" (north is up, right ;) along the driveway to the garage, up the wall of the garage, around the garage, back down to the ground, along the driveway to the house, then up the wall of the house, "east" to the corner, around the corner, then down the wall to the controller.

This will keep the dog from running across the driveway right in front of the car when you're backing out (flat dog = unhappy family). When the wire is up high, under the eaves of the house, it will be out of range of the collar so it won't trigger.

Another full yard method

Similar to the second method, but where you show the wire crossing the grass to the driveway, then from the driveway to the house, bury the wire deeper than the "width" setting so that it won't trigger when the dog crosses the wire. If you've got a 3' width setting, burying the wire 4-5' deep will prevent it from triggering, giving the pooch the full run of the front and back yards.

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