I recently installed a new vanity and the location of the inlet is 1/2 inch off from where the tail piece when the tail piece is straight and flush with the vanity.

When tugging a bit on the whole thing, I am able to insert the tailpiece into inlet. However it is at a slight angle, enough that when I screw the drain onto the inlet it will not sit flush to the sink.

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It seems as simple as extending the outlet but then looking at the sink, most of it is inside the wall and everything is glued together.

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I was thinking I could just buy a coupler to extend the outlet. I don't want to because I think when I cut it, it will be so close to the P-trap that I will need to either remove ( chip away? ) the outlet part that's glued inside the p-trap so that a new one can be put inside, or buy a new p-trap and other parts.

What is the proper way to fix this ?

  • 1
    There should be enough flex in the tail piece and play in the slip nut (that's the part at the top of the "Y") that you can get the tail piece properly screwed into the bottom of the bowl, yet angled to fit into the top of the trap and tightened enough to prevent it from leaking. I just did this with my replacement vanity that was a bit bigger than the old one, meaning the new drain didn't quite line up with the old plumbing.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 14:03
  • Most tail pipe and P trap assemblies have slip joints with compression fittings instead of glued joints to allow adjustments for these differences. As FreeMan mentioned there should be enough flex in a tailpiece to accommodate 1/2" which is what I would try. There are plastic flex tailpieces available - although they tend to accumulate gunk.
    – HoneyDo
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 14:48
  • Why is there a sanitary tee on top of the Ptrap and what feeds into it from the side. Is there a sanitary tee in the wall and is there proper venting ? I Also think the whole glued mess should be replaced.
    – Alaska Man
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 17:01
  • That clear pipe on the side connects to a water pump that is next to my HVAC. The pump looks to be the drain from my HVAC and tankless hot water heater. I assume it's right but I've never had anyone look at it.
    – Michael
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 17:22

2 Answers 2


Worst case cut the glued mess off and use a trap with compression rings a pvcckit at big box store 8-9$ . You will need a longer pice to the right 1-2$ more then everything is adjusted to the drain without pressure on it. They even make fancy chrome plated plastic for ~20 since you are upgrading if you want to. I would not use those flex tail pieces I usually find those after they have leaked and ruined the cabinet. Then put in the correct slip joint type of trap.

  • So would I cut the pipe at the wall and install some male threaded pvc for the new p-trap etc to hook into via compression fittings? That first part would need to be glued on? I'm not so clear on what you are advising as I'm not so experienced with all this. Thanks.
    – Michael
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 17:24
  • With a compression fitting you don't necessarily need a threaded fitting at the wall. Compression kits allow flexibility in length by allowing the smaller diameter pipe to slip inside the bigger. This allows adjustment to point of rotation of the trap, potentially allowing the center of the drain to be offset from the pipe's center by the radius of trap's swing. If rushed compression fittings can leak but can be easier to maintain, in my opinion. See this video for an example of what I am describing. youtube.com/watch?v=2befOMjA3ho
    – RomaH
    Commented Jun 6, 2020 at 4:44
  • @romah yes the kits I am talking about are slip fit very easy to line up.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Jun 6, 2020 at 6:11

It's important that the drain sit flush in the sink or it will leak, maybe not now but in the future. Tighten the drain and cut off the straight tail piece and install a flexable pipe from your sink fitting to your pipes below.

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  • 5
    Jack this is one I can’t agree with, those work for a while but some of the worst cabinet damage that I have seen has been because of those flex tubes start leaking, the reason it is the worst damage has been because the same folks that use those buy cabinets made out of particle board at big box stores and the particle board base and side walls swell up and fall apart quickly. , yes they work for a while but I would never recommend.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 14:50
  • 1
    @EdBeal I hate them too but it's such a small small amount of flex I felt it would be an alternative to redoing the whole mess.+ to your answer, bottom line right way to do it.
    – JACK
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 15:01
  • 2
    Be especially careful, as some building codes disallow flex pipes altogether!
    – ArmanX
    Commented Jun 5, 2020 at 23:02
  • @armanx I never knew the flex was not allowed , yes I have seen things sold at stores that were not legal in some areas like the metal flex for wood stove inserts, with the trouble I have seen with them I would agree that they should not be used.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Jun 6, 2020 at 6:17

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