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enter image description hereenter image description hereI have a home built in the 50's with no overhead lighting in the living room. I'm looking to add some wafer lights (6) and a ceiling fan. I've determined the power pull won't overload the 20 amp breaker, and found a convenient location for switches. There is already a switch where i'm planning to add the two additional, installing a 3 gang box in place of the current single switch. The existing switch is for the chandelier in the dining room. Source power runs from the breaker box directly into that fixture, then down to the switch.

I'd like to tap into the source from the J Box above the chandelier, then run two 12/2 wires to (1)Wafer lights, then daisy-chain one to the next (2) new ceiling fan - then both will run wire back DOWN to the switch.

Is this end-line approach feasible and am I missing anything?

  • Can you post photos of the inside of the box you're planning to tap power at please? – ThreePhaseEel Apr 23 at 23:52
  • I've created a quick diagram to show what I'm hoping to accomplish. Unfortunately w/o removing the overhead light in the dining room (which will be next step IF this can be accomplished). Diagram shows black lines for original wiring, red = wafer lights, green = ceiling fan. I'm really hoping to get assurance that my plan can be executed in running end-line switch for ceiling fan and end-line dimmer for wafer lights. – Drew Poole Apr 24 at 14:53
  • Is the always-hot receptacle on the same circuit as the dining room overhead light? – ThreePhaseEel Apr 24 at 23:35
  • Yep, the outlet is on the same circuit – Drew Poole Apr 25 at 15:36
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Since it's all on the same circuit, this works

Since the receptacle being fed from the switch box is on the same circuit as the light, we know that we have a neutral at the switch box already (a Code requirement now, see NEC 404.2(C) for details), so we don't have to worry about that with our new runs of wire from the ends of the light run down to the switch boxes, called switch loops by electricians. You'll still want a length of 12/3 for the run from the fan down to the switch box though; this gives you the flexibility to have the ceiling fan and its light kit controlled by separate switches, or to use any ceiling fan controller you wish instead of being locked into one of only a few options.

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  • Perfect, thanks! I've created another diagram for my own reference when I wire the switch loop and posted here as well. Last few questions (1) based on the switch loop wiring to the first wafer light, I should still be able to daisy chain the other 5, making 6 total lights starting from the first, right? (2) New 12/3 to the switch would be only if I wanted the light from the fan to have it's own switch? If I just wanted both on the same with the ability to pull the light chain if I want it on, then 12/2 would suffice? – Drew Poole Apr 25 at 17:46
  • @DrewPoole (1) is fine -- you'll just have switched-hot + neutral chaining onward to the other lights. Main reason I recommend a 12/3 in (2) is to not box yourself (or the next owner!) into a corner in the future regarding separate fan and light controls – ThreePhaseEel Apr 25 at 17:48
  • That makes sense, thanks again! Trying to knock this out before the attic gets unbearable. Much appreciated – Drew Poole Apr 25 at 17:52

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