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I have ordered this metal bracket for hanging gymnastic rings in my garage to add to my home gym ( https://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-ring-hanger ). My garage does not have a second story above it, only the roof.

On it's own, the bracket will span 2 of my rafters and it appears many mount it directly to the rafters or joists without a stringer. However I'm likely going to mount a 2x4 or 2x6 stringer across 4 different rafters (it's a drywalled ceiling), to double down since I'll be hanging on these as will my kids. For what it's worth, I weigh about 170lbs.

I would like a gut check and any feedback on the following approach:

  • Cut a 2x to span 4 of the rafters
  • Use stud finder to mark off the rafters
  • Mark and predrill for lag screws
  • Mount the 2x to the outermost rafters with 6'' 3/8 stainless steel lags (advice on smaller or shorter?)
  • Mount the ring hanger bracket inthe center of the 2x with the same 6'' 3/8 stainless steel lags, this time going through the bracket, the 2x, and into the rafter
  • Victory?

I would appreciate any feedback or help in making sure I get a very strong and secure mount for this ring hanger. I received some feedback on Reddit that this may significantly weaken the rafters that got me concerned?

Thanks!

  • The 6" lags seem like overkill especially if your rafters are 2x4's. 4 to 4.5" would be fine. – JACK Apr 10 at 20:54
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    I weighed 190 when I boxed and we had stretching exercises on the olympic rings at my gym. So anyway... we had them hooked to metal trusses that were pretty thick about 15 feet overhead. I could definitely feel them moving a bit (not a ton) and I kind of laugh at the picture on their website. If I used those ring for anything but pullups - the lateral movement would knock any bracing on 2x4s and for sure pop/twist them out of place. I simply would never install something like that unless I found a want to carry the load away from the main house construction. – DMoore Apr 10 at 21:04
  • To be more exact - if your garage was an add-on with a ledger to main house - go for it only risking garage. If there are shared joists I wouldn't even think about it. – DMoore Apr 10 at 21:06
  • Thanks. The more I'm learning about it...the more I'm considering just cancelling my order. – Rapture Apr 10 at 21:12
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    @Rapture - I think that is a good choice - I ruined joists in a basement rental just using a 200 lb water bag. I am all for home fitness but I also know rings require a ton of force to do things on. I would answer your own question so that others get the same feedback about risks to their home installing something like this. – DMoore Apr 10 at 21:32
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Thanks for the contribution from others in answers and comments. At the suggestion of @DMoore, I'm going to answer my own question.

After the feedback here and reading more, I've made the decision to not try to tackle this project and will be searching for other means to hang rings (a high wall mounted pull up bar or a tall squat rack) since I'm not comfortable enough in either my knowledge or skills and don't want to unnecessarily or dangerously weaken my rafters.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback and help.

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Yes, any drilling or screw to the rafters will weaken them, and screwing into the bottom of rafters is the location that they are most affected by far. However, it's all about the -how- as in how much. Usually there is plenty of reserve capacity in joists because usually the loads fall in between the what the available size members can support and the larger one is used. To reduce the weakening effect of putting a hole in to the joist (a screw creates a hole), I advise to not use lag screws for installation such as this because of their larger size and they are simply not needed.

I would find it unusual that the weakening of the joist is an issue. The wording might be important here and it might be more accurate to say that it is almost surely that your joists are over strength and you can do what you are proposing by tapping into the extra capacity. Also, the highest stress is at mid-span and for a joist supported at the ends the stress decreases linearly to the supports. Since the joist size didn't change there is then even more reserve capacity moving away from the center. I hope that makes you feel a little better about it.

I suggest using (1) Simpson SDS at each truss w/ at least 1-1/2" of embed which means 2" of threads in to the supporting members. This provides a little over 250# per screw. Your dry wall ceiling is likely 5/8", and with the 1-1/2" of the board you want to use, that is 2-1/8" of material before you start to get embed, so a screw length that is 2-1/8+1-1/2" = 3-5/8" and therefore you'll need to use a 4-1/2" screw length is nearest next larger size. BTW, this screw is technically a lag screw as far as design is concerned. There are other structural construction screws out there and they should all work just find. Avoid any 'regular' screws, especially drywall screws.

Hit the middle of the joist width (3/4" in from the edges for a 2x), a screw very near the side will not have the expected strength

Stainless steel is not necessary here since there is no contact with pressure treatment, dissimilar metals or water/moisture.

https://p.widencdn.net/ip5oxr/C-F-2019-p060.pdf

enter image description here

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  • Wow! Thanks for the detailed writeup and recommendation. Your note about the weakening of the rafters still has me concerned coupled with additional feedback I've read, I may forgo this project and cancel my order and consider other ways to hang rings. – Rapture Apr 10 at 21:17
  • You're very welcome. I've edited my answer to include more information about the joist and capacity that will hopefully help to address your concerns. – Ack Apr 10 at 21:32
  • WHAT??? How can you say, “the highest stress is at the middle of the span”? You’re wrong. The highest stress for bending is in the middle, but the highest stress for shear is at the support and decreases towards the middle. This shear (that you’ve ignored or don’t understand) is horizontal shear and can cause failure if not calculated correctly. If you don’t know what you’re talking about, don’t spew inaccurate information. Shooting from the hip is not advised on this site. At least you’re not calling yourself a structural engineer anymore. – Lee Sam Apr 10 at 23:57
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    @Ack My point is, don’t make statements until you know enough to make a definitive answer or qualify your answers with qualifications on species, grade of lumber, maximum span, etc. AND when your not sure or don’t have all the necessary information, tell them to seek help from an architect or structural engineer. – Lee Sam Apr 11 at 0:57
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    @Ack You’re wrong. You don’t know the difference between horizontal shear and extreme fiber in bending. That horizontal shear has nothing to do with what you call “forces to the moment”. – Lee Sam Apr 11 at 1:44

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