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Pictures https://imgur.com/a/olBlrHG basically explain it. It was a "full bath" when we bought it and sold as one, (and its recorded as such for tax purposes). I want to convert it to laundry room/shower. Location is Baltimore, MD. I need a 2" for shower and a 2" for laundry/utility sink.

Based upon my current set-up, is the correct way to just dig down and tie in a no hub 4" x 2" branch? I know I will have to vent, thinking AAV for ease/cost but willing to roof venting if necessary. Slab is old and around 2" think, so easy to cut out. Already cut a small section at old lav to see condition of existing drainage.

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[3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/24aqw.jpgenter image description here

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I am gathering that you are going to frame behind the toilet/sink. If not, this is a no-brainer. You want to use 2x6 so it is easy to move any plumbing through this (vents).

Also if I were you - no way in the world would I lose a toilet. You bought the house with a full bath in the basement and if you take out the toilet it probably doesn't meet the real estate definition of a half bath.

Rules -

  • You need venting. There are different ways you can do this but I think with new framing you can probably get to your main stack pretty easily. If you have specifics I can walk you through options.
  • If you break the ground you are supposed to get permits in most areas. Would I? Depends were I am at. This could also be an issue with removing toilet - your city could notice that your house lost a bathroom or at least 1/2.
  • You have already broken part of the ground - get all the metal out of there to your main stack and tie it in with PVC.

What would I do? I have done a lot of basement/laundry combos.

  • Frame that back wall in 2x6.
  • Install a deep basin sink with a huge counter right next to toilet.
  • Put washer and dryer under counter to right of the sink.
  • I would install shower where the head is against wall (so your counter wall to the right is the first 20" of the shower.
  • I would tie in the shower and sink to toilet after its trap and send everything down this way. This serves your needs plus the water from shower/sink/laundry flush out any toilet debris.
  • I would either put a knee wall on left side of sink to hide toilet or a full wall and door for toilet if you want to hide it.

If you can give me the dimensions you are working with I can help layout what you want to do.

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  • Awesome. Yeah I meant to say I plan on leaving toilet exactly where it is. I really just couldn’t wrap my head around tying into either the 4” toilet drain which drops vertically into main sewer line or if it was better to go all the way down with a separate line to the main. I should be able to mj couple a 4 by 2 1/8 bend wye to the top of toilet riser 4”, right? Agree on the 2 by 6 back wall to hide venting. I can get you exact measurements, it’s tight for sure hence my current set up. Played a lot with it thus far. I’m an over analyzer. Agreed about permits. Still debating... – ybotrunner Apr 6 '20 at 21:07
  • Two other things from your pics - you will need to vent out the shower. Think about that - it can go straight out to the outside. Also I hate the joists cut at the bottom for water/gas line that you have - hate that. I would add at least a metal tie brace. On the layout part the two big questions are - can you go with a washer and dryer with control on front (opposed to top) and what are you doing for a shower pan? The shower pan size is going to determine a few things. – DMoore Apr 6 '20 at 23:49
  • Yeah previous owner did that, used to be water like I think. Agreed, don’t like notches. That picture is now older. I used the notches to run 3/4” conduit for the electric washer and dryer in same location. Used nail plates but could install stud shoes instead. (THHN 10/3 and 12/2). Was planning a custom medium pack mortar bed. Washer and dryer we already own, front load but controls on top. I’ll draw up a sketch soon with exact dimensions. Appreciate the input. – ybotrunner Apr 7 '20 at 0:10

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