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I have an LG TV. It somehow tripped itself and just keeps blinking red and green on the power light and when I get it to turn off it stays for a second and then goes back to blinking.

I swapped it for a working TV in another room, it worked in the room I moved it to. Meanwhile the TV I took from the other room keeps doing the same thing. Could the TV's be overloading my circuit? It's not the outlet itself as I plugged it into another outlet on the same circuit same situation.

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    I can't keep the TVs and outlets straight. Too many "it"s. Any chance of revising this so that we can tell exactly what you've done to troubleshoot and what is your question?
    – gnicko
    Mar 29 '20 at 1:53
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    Can you get a voltage reading on the outlets? Mar 29 '20 at 2:14
  • TV A & Location A = original problem. TV B and Location B = other tv and location. Are you saying that the TV A worked ok in the other room Location B? And that both TV's had blinking issue at Location A?
    – Ack
    Mar 29 '20 at 2:49
  • Many possibilities: loose wires in the outlet, low or over voltage due to bad neutral... Mar 29 '20 at 3:07
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    I agree, this is unclear. You know what you mean, we don't. It and needs an edit to clarify exactly where the flashing red and green lights are, more on the TV, etc. Mar 29 '20 at 5:44
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This may be a very simple fix. It turns out the similar problem I described was all due to low batteries in a Firestick remote. Apparently when the batteries get low in those, and possibly other types of IR remotes, it can send out spurious IR signals that get received by the appliances. Dumb design flaw in the remote. It should probably just have a little LED that flashes when the batteries are low. Anyway, I verified it by getting that remote out of the line of sight and the problem went away. Put in new batteries and life's good.

Imagine the design review for the Firestick. "So how will the customer know if the batteries are getting low?" "Oh, we've got that. We've rigged it so that it sends rapid on/off signals to the TV." "Wouldn't that be a potential symptom of a lot of other issues, some much more complicated to solve?" "Well, yeah, but then maybe they'll just order a new TV on Amazon and we'll make more money." "Good point. Run with it."

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    But why would this make the set only misbehave on one power socket and not others?
    – Chenmunka
    Feb 24 at 18:10
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    Because it had nothing to do with the outlet or power supply, and everything to do with the remote that’s batteries were going out. Once that was solved it didn’t matter where the TV was, it worked fine. Feb 28 at 15:45
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    IR interference is a real thing. I've worked couple years for a major brand universal remote. Here are some trick environment effects I've came across... The "Power saver" mode for some TV will match the IR frequency of some devices, and that remote will not work. Some have "Environmental Brightness Adjustment", and THAT is even worse. It'll cause certain remotes to stop working only at specific time of day due to environment brightness causing the TV to hit a specific frequency. The SUN is also a source of IR interference.
    – Nelson
    Mar 4 at 5:04
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    IR remotes have a +/- 10% frequency margin, so let's say your remote uses 20 kHz, it is set to respond to 19kHz to 21kHz. I've actually found devices where the frequency was within 20% that I can set the frequency right between the two, put in the combined data signal, and control two devices simultaneously with one button.
    – Nelson
    Mar 4 at 5:05

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