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I am a total noob when it comes to electricity and find this questions hard to search answers for on the internet. I have the below setup:

  • Dell screen 1.5a * 230v = 345w
  • Dell screen 1.5a * 230v = 345w
  • Samsung screen 1a * 230v = 230w
  • Samsung screen 1a * 230v = 230w
  • BASF stereo amp 200w (8-16 ohm, does this matter ?)
  • WD Elements 0.6a * 230v = 138w
  • YANEC laptop charger output 90w, input unspecified (il assume input of 50w)

sum all = 1578w

all connected to Konig power strip with max 3680W max 13500a surge protection (it has this small extra button which is the surge protection)

I am in Belgium hence the 230v.

I used to have a similar setup with another screen and my desktop pc also connected to the power strip. One day the power strip made a poof sound when I switched it on and stopped working for a while, all appliances where fine except for the computers PSU which was fried.

My little knowledge of electricity tells me that I just have to compare the wattage. So in this case 1578w < 3680w so I should be safe. But someone told me that the appliances will draw more at the moment my power strip is turned on. This would explain also how I fried my PSU.

So my question to you guys: can I safely switch my power strip on and off too effectively use it as an on/off switch for all appliances at the same time? Or will I fry one of them at some point?

Also, yes, I am aware that I could have avoided destroying my PSU if I had done this research earlier.

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    I agree with the JACK answer that the fried PSU caused the breaker in your power strip to open, not the other way around. – Carl Witthoft Mar 27 at 17:30
  • I would look at the sourcing of the power strip that failed. Did you buy that at a retail shop inside the EU? Or is it a mail-order special? Mail-order is not safe inside the EU because dodgy companies are using it to bypass EU auality and safety regs. Just look at any of BigClive's teardowns on Youtube. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Mar 27 at 17:50
  • Re: laptop charger, not really significant in failure of PSU or surge suppressor, but you won't get more power out than power in, plus the power supply will use some energy in the voltage conversion process, so input watts will exceed output watts. – NoSparksPlease Mar 28 at 16:38
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None of the items you have listed would have much of an increase in starting currents. That usually applies to motor loads. You're fine switching your power strip on and off. Did you consider the fact that maybe the power supply failed, shorted out, and that's why the power strip went poof when it tripped?

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  • That's wrong. Monitors, PC, amplifiers and so forth contain capacitors, which can cause a rather large inrush. While it's probably not a problem in this case, they certainly do have large inrush currents, to charge the capacitors. – vidarlo Mar 27 at 14:23
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    @vidarlo They will cause a slight increase but not much on the 230V side which is plugged into the power strip. – JACK Mar 27 at 15:19
  • Supporting the use of the switch as just fine with an appeal to logic: is there any other reason would a power strip have a power switch? The surge protection is a different switch that is reset if it is tripped. – Ack Mar 27 at 18:03
  • @JACK I had a computer that would flip the breaker (20A/120V) the first time it was turned on if it was off for more than a day, then work after that... it was a pretty old power supply though, I haven't seen that with a newer one. – mbrig Mar 27 at 20:35
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    @vidarlo That was sometimes true in the past, when individual appliances used simple power supplies that were little more than a transformer, a rectifier, and a large capacitor. Modern switch-mode power supplies have their own current-limiting circuits, and since they operate at kHz frequencies not the 50 or 60 Hz mains frequency, the capacitor values are very much smaller in any case. – alephzero Mar 27 at 20:36

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